Groats and goats

I’ve been wanting to do it for a while, but I really wanted to add goat cheese.  Goat cheese, though, can be expensive; especially in an experimental dish where it might end up decorating the inside of a trash can, rather than the inside of me.

But, once again, Trader Joe’s came to my rescue with a nice little nubbin of chevre, for only three bucks.  The same amount sells at Whole Foods for $8.  Joe has a larger piece with vanilla and covered in blueberries that I’m dying to try, but since Petey dislikes goat cheese, and The Kid can’t abide blueberries, I’d be on my own to eat it—and I’m afraid I would, in one gluttonous, glorious sitting.

The “it” I’ve been wanting to make is a bowl of savory oatmeal.

I just read in Food Network magazine that in 2017 babka (a Jewish marbled, sweet yeast bread), and churros will be big this year (I’ve loved churros since a trip to Los Angeles’ Olvera Street in the 70’s). This dish is also having a moment.  Savory oatmeal is big in two catagories; savory porridge and grain bowls.  Both are as trendy as statement sleeves, platform shoes, and Mondrian-like graphics.

But rather than a craving for chic, my desire comes from a very old, very familiar place.

Ever since I was a little girl in pigtails and footy pajamas, I have loved oatmeal.  I’ve eaten it scary, with half a stick of butter and a boatload of corn syrup.  I’ve eaten it smart with a couple drops of agave and some fruit and nuts.  But I’ve eaten it, and eaten it, and eaten it.Except, never in savory form.

A note about the oats.  I used Coach’s Oats, which I buy at Costco.  But you could use slow cooking steel cut or regular rolled.  Mine cooked in five minutes, so they’re considered ‘quick cooked’.  But don’t use instant oats because there won’t be time for the broth you make to flavor the cereal.

Savory goat cheese oats

savory-oats2 servings oats, uncooked

Water for oatmeal according to directions

1 teaspoon chicken base

1 teaspoon umami or tomato paste

½ teaspoon dry thyme

½ teaspoon fresh rosemary chopped finely

2/3 cup sherry

2 tablespoons onion marmalade: Cook one chopped yellow onion in a little fat until amber-colored, season with salt, pepper, and thyme.  Add 1/3 cup sherry and cook until completely evaporated.

8 ounces mushrooms, sliced

Olive oil

3 tablespoons goat cheese, crumbled

2 tablespoons sunflower seeds

Big handful pea shoots

Salt and pepper

Make broth: put water in non-stick saucepan.  Add chicken base, umami, thyme, rosemary, salt & pepper.  Cook on low heat just until it comes to simmer.  Cover, turn off, and let cool.

Heat skillet on medium-high, and add a drizzle of olive oil.  Add mushrooms, season, and cook until they’re caramelized.  Deglaze with 1/3 cup sherry.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhen ready to make oats, cook in broth according to directions.  When finished cooking, check for seasoning, stir in onions, mushrooms, and sunflower seeds.  Plate, then top with bits of goat cheese, and a big pile of pea shoots.  Serves two as a side, or one as a main dish.

This recipe is just a template.  You could flavor it in any manner you like.  You can travel around the world in a bowl of oatmeal.

So, you may not get to Milan or Paris for shopping.  But if you make these savory oats, you can be the most fashionable person in your kitchen.Thanks for your time.

If you don’t know the words, hummus along

All in all, it was your basic, normal family day at the mall.Well, normal for us (we’re the ones that put the ‘fun’ in dysfunction).

Every six weeks or so, my folks come from Greensboro, and Petey, The Kid and I meet them at the mall—usually The Streets at Southpointe.  We wander around, grab some lunch, and do some shopping.

My mom and I gravitate toward Sephora for our mutual quest of the unlined, luminous skin of a toddler, and my own private mission to locate the one mascara which will give me lashes that rival the luxurious flamboyance of a Kardashian.

As for the nerd that is The Kid, any store that sells any Poindexter paraphernalia contains a homing beacon that draws my child like an ant to a melted popsicle.  If the window displays time lords, star ships, or muscle-bound men wearing their underwear on the outside; The Kid’s there.

Wil Wheaton, a member of the Nerdsville royal court.

My dad and Petey are normally on the hunt for a bench that will contain them both, as well as the bags and parcels which Mom, The Kid and I mound around them, like gifts around slightly wilted Christmas trees.

We decided this time we’d mix things up a bit and go to Crabtree.

Plans were made, logistics were worked out and we awaited Saturday.

Saturday morning The Kid called them when we arrived at the mall so they could meet us.  When my child was on the phone, I had a strange thought.  “Make sure they’re at Crabtree too.”Nope.

Somehow, despite the phone calls firming plans, the location information had been lost somewhere between my lips and my mother’s ears.  They were in Durham.

Somebody was going to have to change locations.

The Kid and I really should have gone to them.  But we couldn’t.  Luckily my folks are awesome, and they came to us.

The reason we couldn’t leave resides in Crabtree’s food court.  Not only is this restaurant one of our favorite food court eateries, Kabobi is one our favorite places to eat anywhere.

It’s simply the best Mediterranean I’ve ever eaten.  If you had a Lebanese grandmother you’d hope she could cook like this.  Everything is fresh, and really tasty.  Their lemon chicken is never dry, the fried eggplant is never greasy, and the lentils and rice are what all lentils and rice should strive to be.

If we go to Crabtree, we go to Kabobi.

Thank you, Mr. Sanjar.

It’s not something we do as often as we’d like, though.  So ever since The Kid was small, we’ve made a dish that can take the edge off our Kabobi craving.

Roasted garlic hummushumus1 head of garlic

2 (15-16 ounce) cans chick-peas, drained and rinsed

2/3 cup well mixed tahini

¼ cup fresh lemon juice, or to taste

¼ cup olive oil, + more for drizzling

¼ to ½ cup water, as needed

Kosher salt

Freshly cracked pepper

Paprika

Toasted pita thins

Roast garlic: Preheat oven to 300.  Cut garlic head in half horizontally.  Drizzle on a little olive oil on cut sides, and season with salt and pepper.  Put halves back together.  Wrap in foil and bake 45 minutes.  When done, remove from oven, unwrap, and let cool.  When cooled, remove cloves from the skins and put into food processor.

In a food processor puree the chick-peas with garlic, tahini, lemon juice, ¼ cup of the oil, and ¼ cup water, scraping down the sides, until the hummus is smooth. Add more water, if necessary, to thin hummus to desired consistency.  Transfer to bowl and season. Drizzle hummus with olive oil and sprinkle with paprika. Serve with warmed pita.Yield: 4 cups

The brightness of the lemon is a great foil for the deep, sweet flavor of the roasted garlic, so adjust the lemon until there’s balance.  And lemon always needs plenty of salt, so don’t be shy.  Just keep tasting it.

Like I said, our trip to the mall was just a normal run-of-the-mill trip for my family.  You could duplicate it yourself, though.  In addition to your family you’re gonna need a full clown car, a six-pack of monkeys, ten or twelve preschoolers high on jelly beans, and a pair of cantankerous pack mules.

family-mall-trip

Thanks for your time.

Tempest of Taste

In the end, we were lucky; we didn’t lose power.But two weeks ago it was a distinct possibility.  It only takes a little ice on the wrong line or tree limb and we would’ve been in the dark and the cold.

So, last Friday, we went by Harris Teeter to pick up a few items that might keep us from starvation and the ensuing cannibalism should we lose electricity.

And of course, the store was a study in madness.We got some chips and then headed to the deli counter.  Petey chose ham, I picked corned beef, and in case The Kid came over, I bought some roast beef.

So, we went home with enough supplies to keep us alive even if we were eating in the dark.

Like I said, the electricity stayed on.  And, The Kid never came over.

But there was no way that I was going to waste expensive lunch meat.  So, Saturday night, even though it was literally freezing cold, we had sandwiches.  Sunday we had hot food, but Monday we ate more sandwiches because we had more meat, and the roast beef needed to be eaten.

About thirty years ago or so, Petey and I rented a cottage in Nags Head.This was before I had interest or skill in cooking, so we bought copious amounts of sandwich ingredients.  One of them was roast beef.  And there on the outer banks, I invented a new sandwich.

I spread a very, very thick layer of mayo on one side.  On the other side I put about an inch and a half of cream cheese.  I then added a healthy stack of roast beef, a couple slices of ripe summer tomatoes and plenty of crispy bacon.

When years later I ordered it from a sandwich shop, the nice lady who made it said it was one weirdo of a sandwich.  The name stuck, and my creation became “The Weirdo”.marmalade-mayoOn that frozen Monday I planned on a simple roast beef and horseradish mayo on sourdough.  But when I opened the fridge to retrieve the mayonnaise, I spied some homemade onion marmalade.  Into the mayo it went.  I also seasoned it with some coffee salt I had just made (the recipe’s in Salting the Salt Away Daily Dispatch-7/6/2016).

It was at this point I made the decision to make for myself a new version of a  Wierdo.

But I was three decades older, and fifty pounds lighter.  I wanted the flavors, but in a package that wasn’t so cardiac-crushingly rich, heavy, and caloric.

On one slice of bread I spread the horseradish mayo.  But instead of half a pound of full fat cream cheese, I’d make a lighter spread.

Smoked sun-dried tomato cream cheesesmoked-sun-dried-cr-cheese

½ cup whipped light cream cheese

2-3 tablespoons sundried tomatoes in oil, rinsed, patted dry, and diced

5 or 6 drops liquid smoke

Pinch of thyme

Salt and pepper

Throw everything except salt & pepper into a small food chopper and mix until it’s fully mixed and a pale orange in color.  Taste and season.

Makes enough for 2 or 3 sandwiches.

To this updated sandwich I added shaved red onion to counterbalance the sweet caramelized onion and a handful of pea shoots for crispy freshness.

You can use my cream cheese spread on all kinds of food—I think it would be earth shaking on a burger or a BLT.

But if you like the occasional roast beef sandwich, I hope you’ll try my Weirdo 2.0.Thanks for your time.

Golden Brown & Ducky

Every year The Kid and I get some type of expensive or hard-to-find food item for Christmas.

Some years it’s heritage grits from Anson Mills in South Carolina.  Some years it’s vanilla beans.  But every year Santa brings me some kind of indulgent eatable.One day, while visiting the North Pole Costco with Mrs. Claus, the jolly, pink-cheeked couple spied split ducks, pre-cooked and vacuum-wrapped.  Knowing how much The Kid and I enjoy duck, on Christmas day, we each found a duck under the tree.  Each half came with a plastic pouch of orange sauce which was pretty much just sugar and orange food coloring.

The pouches were discarded as quickly and carefully as if they were glowing packets of strontium 90.

For New Year ’s Day I made what has become kind of a tradition for dinner.  Creamy, buttery Anson Mills grits, black-eyed peas cooked with bacon, and a mound of sautéed spinach.  It’s warm, comforting, and hey, if the universe wants to give me good luck and piles of money in the New Year, who am I to argue?As always, I made too many grits.  I decided to pour them into a square vessel and spread them out as smoothly as possible—I had a kind of an idea.  I also had some spinach left which was saved as well.

A few days ago I took one of the packs of duck out of the freezer.  More of the idea had coalesced.The plan was to cut the grits into two pieces, and grill them in a frying pan with a butter.  The center would be creamy, with a browned, crusty outside.  I would then warm the duck in some sort of sauce, lay it on the grits, and top the whole shebang with the reheated spinach.

Later that night I was still thinking about what kind of sauce for the duck.  Duck is really rich, and the grits are rich and creamy, too, so I didn’t want anything heavy and fatty.  I decided to shred the duck, and put it into a saucepan with some Sweet Baby Rae’s barbecue sauce.  There’s lots of flavor, but not fat.  Also, I thought the vinegar in the sauce would, along with the lemony spinach, help cut the richness.The duck came on the bone, with the skin on, which was pretty flabby and anemic. This was actually good news because that meant that the fat had not rendered out.  I pulled the meat off the one, and sliced the skin into strips. I laid it in a cold skillet and cooked it on medium-low until all the fat had rendered out and the skin was golden and crispy.  If this had been pork skin, it would have been called cracklings.

I called it “quacklings”.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI salted the crispy bits and gave them to Petey.  That man ate every single piece.

I ended up with a couple tablespoons of duck fat.  Chef-type folk love this stuff and even call it ‘liquid gold’.  It makes the best fried or roasted potatoes you’ve ever eaten.  I was going to put it in the fridge and with the fat from the second half of the duck, do something potato-ey with it.

Then I glanced at the grit cakes I was preparing to toast in butter, and had a better idea.  Let me tell you, grits are good.  Anson Mills grits slow-cooked with loads of butter are darn good.  Pan frying them into cakes with butter would have been great.But cooking those puppies in duck fat were astonishing.  I cooked the first side covered, to make sure they were warmed through.  I uncovered the skillet and flipped them.  When that side was golden brown I plated.

The duck which had crispy, mahogany-colored caramelized bits went on next.  Then the whole thing was topped with sautéed spinach.

It was darn good.  Petey and I both cleaned our plates.

I’ve gotta say; if I were a duck, I wouldn’t feel that my life was in vain to have ended up in a dish like that. Aside from all the being killed and eaten thing, of course.

Thanks for your time.

Let’s Go Crazy, Let’s Get Nuts!

Remember when pistachios were red?

When I was a little kid, pistachios came in bright red shells.  You could always tell when somebody had been into the pistachios.  There was no hiding it.  Fingers, mouths, and faces were stained an unnatural cherry.

The reason why they were red was because Iran was our major source for pistachios.  The producers dyed the shells to hide stains and imperfections.  After the Iran hostage crisis in 1979, the American government imposed sanctions on the nation.

No red pistachios for you!

And when the disco-era ban on anything Iranian was in effect, pistachio trees in California, which had been planted in the 1800’s, flourished, and replaced the nuts from overseas.  Due to time-sensitive handling, the shells remain pristine, and consequently, retain their natural hue.

Now it’s a lot harder to tell whose hands have been in the nut jar.

Poor Petey is one of those kids whose birthday falls right after the holidays, so we always try to make a fuss.  I cook his favorites for dinner, and we make or buy him something very special for his gift.

The Kid and I had planned on making a coconut cake, but both of us are pretty coconut-phobic, so we decided to make him another sweet treat which had a certain level of difficulty.  I could whip him up a batch of brownies in ten minutes—we wanted something which had expensive ingredients, and a high possibility of failure, so he could taste our loving efforts in every bite.I may have mentioned it before, but the man has a prodigious sweet tooth.  He had to be the kind of toddler you’d find digging a spoon into a 5-pound bag of Domino.

We decided, because cooking sugar can be tricky, to make him nut brittle.  And because a large bag of the shelled version runs around twenty dollars, we’d use pistachios.  Folks, we were cooking without a net.

We based it on a recipe from Food and Wine magazine.  But all brittle recipes are basically the same, with just a few variations of flavoring and finishing.

Petey’s Pistachio Birthday Brittlepistachio-brittle2 cups sugar

½ cup water

1 stick unsalted butter

1/3 cup light corn syrup

2 teaspoons vanilla

½ teaspoon baking soda

2 cups pistachios

Large, flaked sea salt

Prepare baking sheet.  Grease a large rimmed sheet.  Cover with parchment paper and grease paper, as well.

In a large saucepan, combine sugar, water, butter and corn syrup and bring to boil. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the caramel is light brown and registers 300 on candy thermometer.  Remove from heat and carefully stir in baking soda and vanilla. The mixture will bubble. Stir in nuts, then immediately scrape the brittle onto baking sheet. Using a greased silicone spatula or a greased offset spatula (The Kid and I worked together, so used both), spread brittle into thin, even layer.  Sprinkle with salt. Let cool completely, about 30 minutes. Break brittle into large shards.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe Kid has a genius trick from culinary school to clean pot and tools.  Fill the pot with water, place in all the tools used (including candy thermometer) and put on burner set to medium high.  By the time the water comes to a simmer, the sugar will be re-melted and wash right off.

It turned out beautiful and delicious.  I guess growth in middle age is possible.  It’s been five days since his birthday, and Petey still has some left.  Not much, but some. Thanks for your time.

Betting On Yes

“Some days you get the bear and some days the bear gets you.”, Commander William T. Riker, USS Enterprise NCC-1701D.In the last week, I got a refund at CVS for a faulty tube of mascara, and the manufacturer sent me a gift certificate for more than I had originally spent, as well as free shipping to order directly from their website.

My MP3 player, which I’d purchased 5 months ago, stopped working.  The Amazon seller sent me a brand new replacement, which was fully charged right out of the box.  He also told me to keep the old one.

And, due to a computer glitch and a misquoted fee, I was able to negotiate my co-pay from a trip to the Emergency Room from $250 to $35.

This week I got the bear.On average, I would say that I get the bear about 75-80% of the time.  Very rarely am I completely rebuffed and rejected when I have an issue with a company or product.

I’m not unusually special or charming.  I’m not an attorney, nor do I have one on retainer.  And, I’m not scary or violent.  So, how do I end up with refunds, apologies, and satisfaction while other people wind up on the receiving end of negativity and frustration?

I was in the library one day, and the guy working checkout informed a patron that a lost card replacement would cost $5.

The woman next in line lost her ever-loving mind.  She did a good five minutes on how the entire system was rigged against the little guy.  How every time she came in, she saw some other poor, benighted soul jacked by the man.What this irate woman failed to realize was that the employee in whom she was taking such joy in pummeling, was not ‘the man’.  This guy had no more say in library policy than the books we were borrowing.  He had no authority to waive that fee.

That episode illustrates two important things to remember when you decide it’s time to take a stand.

First, and most importantly, the person that is on the front lines, the first to hear your issue, will almost never be the one who makes the rules, and can make things right for you.  But, this is the gatekeeper.  This person is the one who will either plead your case or see to it that your case is ended before it ever gets started.  You are wise to be genuinely kind and respectful.  Frequently this attitude will persuade them to act as your advocate.

Mr. B, Gentleman Rapper (Left) vs the original, witty, talented genius that is Professor Elemental

Secondly, if you’re spoiling for a fight, take up boxing, or throw down with a rap battle (The east coast-west coast thing is still pretty volatile, I hear. Or maybe hip-hop versus chap-hop).  If you approach this encounter with anger, threats, and abuse, rarely will things go your way.

Rather, express your bewilderment and disappointment.  How could such a thing happen with a company or product you’ve used for years and believe in?  Explain how this completely uncharacteristic, unfortunate event has impacted your life.  You want an empathetic ear to help you overcome an injustice, not a punching bag to abuse.

And, these are not tactics to get free stuff.  This advice is to redress legitimate grievances.  If you possess a larcenous heart, you deserve nothing—in abundance.

For shame.  Nothing for you.

People don’t get up in the morning looking forward to messing with you.  If you are friendly and reasonable, they will find ten reasons to help you out.  If you have the same complaint but are rude and abusive, they can find 10,000 reasons to shut you down.

Thanks for your time.

To Brussels, with love

Any sane person would never touch them again.When I was pregnant with The Kid I walked around for nine months feeling like a sorority girl who’s drunk way too much and knows it’s only a matter of time before their body rejects the alcohol in the loudest, messiest, and most violent means possible.

Not the drunk part, mind you, but the queasy part.  And it didn’t take much to get there—sometimes just brushing my teeth would push me over that particular cliff.

So, pregnancy brain (It’s a real thing. I’ve got stories I could tell you that would make you an avid proponent for cloning as a means of procreation), must be the reason I indulged in this obviously Hindenburg-level dangerous craving.

If you can’t tell what kind of vegetable is under all that sauce, just eat a PBJ.

I was about six or seven months along and for days all I could think about was Brussel sprouts drenched in lashings of Hollandaise sauce.

Yeah, I know, in the cool light of non-pregnancy that dish is unquestionably toxic which regardless of one’s gestational status should be avoided at all costs.

But again, cravings and pregnancy brain.

I hauled my bloated carcass to the grocery store and procured the supplies for this volatile dish.  Frozen sprouts and an envelope of Knorr’s Hollandaise sauce—just add milk, butter, and stir until it comes to a boil.I’ve had many different strains of the flu and a couple bouts of food poisoning, but I was never so sick in my entire life; before or since.  I think I revisited things that I ate in kindergarten.  At one point I’m pretty sure I saw a kitten and a Matchbox car come up.

But I still love those dainty little cabbages.  Like I said any sane person…

These days, fresh are pretty easy to find either bagged or if you get lucky, on the stalk.  The sprout-laden stalk looks like a bell stick made for Paul Bunyan.  For most recipes, I prepare them by rinsing and cutting them off the stalk if necessary.

I then cut them in half, top to bottom.  I remove a couple outer leaves, then blanch in very salty water for about four or five minutes.  I drain them and put them in icy salt water to stop the cooking and set the color.

New World Brussels sproutssprouts-wild-rice2 pounds Brussels sprouts cleaned and blanched

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 tablespoons butter, divided

1 cup pecan pieces, toasted

1 cup brown and wild rice blend, uncooked

½ yellow onion, chopped

1/3 cup dried cranberries

2 ½ cups water or chicken stock

Salt & pepper

Pea shoots or kale microgreens

Make rice: place one tablespoon butter into a large saucepan with a lid.  Melt on medium, and add onions and season.  Cook until the onions start to brown.  Stir in cranberries.  Put rice in pan and the 2 ½ cups liquid.  Cover and cook until rice is tender and liquid has completely absorbed (apporx 45-55 minutes).

While the rice is cooking, heat a skillet on medium.  Drop in vegetable oil and 1 tablespoon butter and when it’s melted, place seasoned sprouts, cut side down into pan.  Let them cook until they’re caramelized.  Cover to keep warm and set aside.When the rice is done,  let it sit, covered and undisturbed for 20 minutes.Uncover rice, and pour into a large bowl.  Add pecans and sprouts.  Gently mix together.  When plating, add a handful of shoots or greens on top.  Serves 6.

Brussel sprouts are also really good in hash, or caramelized and topped with crispy bacon.  You can also shred them and use them in place of regular cabbage in cole slaw.  Another idea is to tumble cleaned and halved sprouts into a roasting pan.  Place a hunk of meat on top, pour in some wine and cook.  The veggies will raise the meat up from the liquid, absorb flavor, and come out golden, tender, and delicious.

So buy a bag and give it some thought.  There’s an infinite number of ways to serve Brussel sprouts.

But please, I’m begging you; keep them away from the Hollandaise.Thanks for your time.

DIY Umami

The Kid and I keep rehashing it.  And making no headway; we’re still flummoxed.

We’re not fairies, but is this a great book title or what?

At a get-together over the holidays, The Kid and I were talking about the flavor of bell peppers.

Suddenly, a family member, who shall not be named, piped up, “Bell peppers and celery both have unami.  Unami is a flavor that we (meaning Americans, I guess) discovered a few years ago”.  This person went on to lecture us for about 20 minutes.  And just about every fact delivered was wrong.

First, it’s umami–with an “m”.  Neither bell peppers nor celery contain it.  A Japanese scientist discovered it in 1908.  The U.S., and much of the rest of the world recognized it as the fifth taste in the early eighties (the other four tastes are; sweet, sour, bitter, and salty).

zombie-2

The Kid, the night before culinary school started.  I thought about using this demented face for our Christmas card.

The Kid and I did a lot of smiling and nodding.  But we’re honestly puzzled as to why we were treated to this erroneous speech in the first place.  My child graduated from culinary school with two degrees.  And because I both write about food and am obsessed with it, I learn everything I can about it.  We both know from umami.

So, The Kid and I received the gift of confusion for Christmas.  But if I think about the whole episode and its motivation too much it gives me a headache.  I feel like a wind-up toy that bumps into the wall, backs up and repeats until brain damage ensues.

But, I digress, umami’s the subject.

Umami bombs.

There are many foods that are umami-rich.  Tomatoes, soy, mushrooms, and anchovies are but a few.  Trader Joe’s actually sells the flavor, in squeezable tubes.  You can order it online from various sources, as well.

But you can create your own umami paste.  And if you’re the kind of person for which this endeavor sounds interesting, you probably have the majority of the ingredients on-hand.

A word about the ingredients.  I use tomato paste in the tube.  Most grocers now carry it, and I usually find it in the Italian section.  Anchovy paste isn’t quite as ubiquitous, but if they have it, it’s usually in the same spot.  Dark soy is richer, sweeter, and less salty than light soy sauce.  You may also see mushroom soy; it is basically dark soy, so either can be used.

Homemade Umamiumami2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 tablespoon anchovy paste

2-3 tablespoons Parmesano Reggiano, finely shredded

2 teaspoon dark soy

2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

2 cloves garlic, peeled

Put everything into a small food processor, or mortar.  Mix until it’s fully incorporated and homogeneous.  Refrigerate for up to a week, or freeze for 3 months.

This packs a big flavor punch, so go easy.  I like it in my herbed potatoes.

Calico Potatoescalico-spuds3-4 pounds of assorted colors of baby potatoes, cut in half

¾ cup water

1 tablespoon chicken base

1 tablespoon umami paste

½ teaspoon dry thyme

¼ cup butter

Salt & pepper to taste

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

¼ cup snipped fresh chives

Put everything except fresh herbs into large Dutch oven.  Stir, cover and cook on medium until potatoes are tender (15-25 minutes).

Uncover and cook until liquid is gone and the potatoes are glazed with the sauce that’s been created. Pour in fresh herbs and toss until they’re evenly distributed.  Serves 4-6.

This paste can go in most savory dishes.  You can’t really taste it as such, but it adds a savory deliciousness that makes you want to come in for another bite.Thanks for your time.

The books of Ruth

I have some food heroes.Shirley Corriher.  She is the intellectual godmother of Alton Brown.  Shirley teaches the “why” of cooking.  You can teach a monkey to cook, but knowing the “why” you do something is the true key to the kingdom.

It’s like trying to be a writer without knowing grammar or vocabulary.  Only when you know the rules can you then bend or even break them, and in the bending refrain from killing anyone, or burning down the house.Another hero is Christopher Kimball, founder of America’s Test Kitchen, a resource for step-by-step recipes, which if faithfully followed, will never disappoint.  The secret is the exhaustive research and testing that every dish goes through.  He is the man who finally got me over my fear of hot sugar and candy thermometers.  Because of him I fearlessly create things like marshmallows, pecan pralines, and fudge.

Last year the sober New Englander in the bow tie stepped away from A.T.K. to go into an entirely new direction of ethnic technique and less time and labor intensive food.Last month America’s Test Kitchen filed suit against its creator for intellectual pillaging and plundering, among other lawyer-ish things.  It’s as if Quakers were hauling the guy on the oatmeal box into court.

But the nerdy, awkward Christopher has taught me a master’s class worth of cooking.  And thus, remains my hero.

Although she will probably laugh herself silly at this proclamation, my mother is one of my food heroes.  She’s not a chef and if you ask her, she’ll tell you she’s not a great cook, but that woman never met a mouth she wouldn’t feed.  She is the soul of generosity.  No one has ever left my mother’s house hungry.welcomeAnd no one ever will.  There is always more than enough for any number of unexpected guests.  She might apologize for the plainness of the fare, but wouldn’t dream of turning away any one of the strays and odd balls I was constantly bringing home.  To her, hell is running out of food before everyone is uncomfortably full.

Since the seventies, Ruth Reichl (pronounced Rye-shill) has been a force in the food world.  Early on as co-owner of the Swallow Restaurant in Berkley, she was a pioneer in the food revolution that took place and transformed the way we all shop, cook, and eat.She has been restaurant critic for both the Los Angeles Times, and the New York Times.  She wrote her first cookbook, Mmmm…The Festiary in 1972.

But The Kid and I discovered her later, when we read her second book, Tender At The Bone, originally published in 1998.  Her voice is funny, fearless, and above all honest.  I still chuckle when I recall the account of her mother’s cooking style and food philosophy which can be summed up with, “It doesn’t matter how old it was, what it smelled like, or looked like, if it didn’t kill you, it was fine.”

She shares stories of trying to remain anonymous as a critic in the Big Apple.  She used false identities, accents, and even theatrical disguises, in her work.  All of this in the attempt to get the type of restaurant experience which a tourist from Altoona would experience, rather than sweaty-palmed, four-star fawning.In 2014, she wrote her first novel, Delicious!.  It’s the story a young woman who moves to New York to write at the eponymously named magazine, which is then abruptly shuttered.  It is partially autobiographical, as Reichl was editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine when Conde Nast unexpectedly ceased operations.

But what I really like about that book, and her others is the way she perfectly captures varied people in all facets of the food industry.  Most of them love to eat, but more, they love to share their passion.

Walk through any busy kitchen, professional or private, and someone, or many someones will come up, hold a morsel to your lips, and direct you to “Eat!”.

And they’ll watch you.  For that look on your face when they know.When they know that they’ve done it again; they created happiness out of food.  Which is what gives them their greatest happiness.

Thanks for your time.

Mad about plaid

Lemme tell you a little story.I really dislike coconut.  The flavor is actually okay, especially in piña coladas made even more decadent with lots of ice cream.  For me it’s a texture thing.  The Kid, however, has no such exceptions.  Coconut is dietary anathema.  It does not pass my child’s lips in any form.

Because of our animus, coconut has never had a place in my kitchen.

Petey eats it, but Petey is one of the least picky humans I know.  I’d always thought it was one more food that he could take or leave, but would eat if placed before him.

But a while back, after close to three decades of matrimony, I discovered something that I never knew about my better half—the man loves coconut.His favorite dessert has to be coconut cake, with many layers, lots of pastry cream filling and tons of 7-minute frosting.  And each component jam-packed with sweet, white shreds of coconut.  The man has a sweet tooth.  As do I.

Not so with The Kid, probably because in our house, sweets are not forbidden fruit, and I think this easy access produced an almost non-existent desire for most things sugary.The Kid does though, have a big crush on shortbread.  Walker’s, the brand with the red plaid boxes are a special favorite.  Last year I made some for the child’s stocking.  That recipe was okay, but wasn’t as rich and buttery as Walker’s.

I wanted to make something a Walker’s devotee might mistake for their more famous shortbread cousin.  Last night I made another batch with a new recipe.

It’s based on a Martha Stewart recipe.  And in the making of it, I picked up a couple of tricks that will vastly improve your final product.Before baking, I cut the 9 X 13 pan of cookies into 40 pieces.  There were ten on the short side and four on the long; long rectangles which are called ‘fingers’.

I created these using my straight metal dough scraper, cutting all the way to the bottom.  Then I used a toothpick to place five neat holes down the length of each piece.  After they baked, I let them cool completely in the pan before turning them out.  I then used a serrated knife to convince them to break off cleanly.

And, as with any simple recipe with few ingredients, use the best quality you can swing.  It will make a difference.

Martha Stewart’s Walker-style shortbreadmartha-shortbread1 1/3 cups (2 sticks plus 6 tablespoons) butter, room temperature, plus more for pans

2/3 cup sugar

3/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

3 1/3 cups all-purpose flour

Preheat oven to 275 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-by-1-inch baking pan, and line bottom with parchment paper. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add salt and vanilla, and beat to combine. Add flour, 1 cup at a time, beating on low speed until just combined.

Press dough into prepared pan, leveling and smoothing the top.

Bake shortbread until evenly pale golden, but not browned, 70 to 85 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack to cool. Invert pan, and remove parchment.

shortbread

The Kid’s Christmas shortbread.

When completely cooled turn shortbread out of pan, score cuts with a serrated knife, and carefully break into bars.  Store in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

I planned to flavor the shortbread with lemon zest and nutmeg.  But I discovered something else about my child.

Like a classic Chanel suit, The Kid likes it best simple and unadorned.In the case of shortbread, less is most definitely more.

Thanks for your time.