This one’s for Bo

Did you ever notice how much I talk about carbs?

It’s true.

It comes from my parents.  In Jersey, where my mom’s from; and Pennsylvania, my dad’s home state, instead of biscuits for breakfast, them Yankees eat something called hard rolls.  They’re delightful little carb bombs; soft and pillow-y on the inside, with a crispy crunchy crust.  Eaten fresh, you break them apart and schmear them with lots of butter.

My dad tells a funny, sweet story about them.Before he met and married my mom, he was a young Coast Guardsman stationed in Elizabeth City.  This was the first time he’d lived in the south.  One Saturday morning he hitched a ride from the base to the town’s only bakery.

He walked in looking for a taste of home.  He asked the counter girl, “Do you have hard rolls?”

The young woman looked at him with sad eyes and replied, “No shug, but we do have day-old bread.”It’s still pretty difficult to find hard rolls in NC.  But, as far as comfort foods go, they’re close to perfect.  Some days you just need hard rolls and a bucket of butter.

The square rolls sold at Costco, and most baguettes come close.  Freeze them, and when needed, run them under cold water and stick ‘em in a 350 degree oven for 13 minutes.  The flavors and textures are almost indistinguishable from the magic that is a hard roll.

So yeah, I guess I love me some carbs—it’s in my DNA.  Even now, every other weekend The Kid and I go to Caffe Driade in Chapel Hill.  I get their frothy, delicious hot chocolate, my child has a pot of French press, and we split a fresh crusty baguette with butter and strawberry jam. But my oldest (and I mean old literally–that wench went to kindergarten with Nefertiti; plus I’ve known her for 38 years) girlfriend Bo called last week, and pointed out something to me—I rarely show diabetics any love.

If you’re not familiar with the disease, it’s not only sugar that’s dangerous, it’s also carbs.  Once they’re eaten, it takes almost no time for your body to turn carbohydrates into sugar.

The American Diabetes Association recommends 135-230 grams of carbohydrates per day.  But there is new thinking about this.  Many doctors now recommend only 20-50 grams per day.  For many people, this alone can keep them off insulin shots.

This is my friend Bo’s lot.  Every carb is counted.  So, starches such as potatoes, rice, and pasta are verboten.

And bread.

But…I found, on a website called Diet Doctor, a recipe for bread that only has two carbs per serving.  The more uncommon ingredients can be procured online.

The Low-Carb Bread

1¼ cups almond flour

5 tablespoons ground psyllium husk powder

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon sea salt

2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar

1¼ cups boiling water

3 egg whites

Sesame seedslow carb breadPreheat oven to 350°F. Mix dry ingredients in a bowl.

Bring water to boil and add it, vinegar and egg whites to bowl, while beating with hand mixer for about 30 seconds. Don’t over-mix dough, the consistency should resemble Play-Doh.

Moisten hands and form dough into 4 or 8 pieces of bread. You can also make hot dog or hamburger buns. Place on a greased baking sheet.

Bake on lower rack in oven for 50–60 minutes, depending on the size of your bread. They’re done when you hear a hollow sound when tapping the bottom of the bun.

Serve with butter and toppings of choice. Store in fridge or freezer.  Makes 6 servings.

I really admire my bud.  Bo is impressive for many reasons, but swearing off carbs boggles my mind.  My two favorite foods are potato salad and birthday cake.  If I had to give them up, I know myself.

Best.Cake.Ever.

I’d become the crankiest serial killer ever.Thanks for your time.

 

Vegetable induced ennui

Petey and I have been married for over 33 years.  On average I cook six meals a week (that’s 5616 meals).  For the first 15 years of marriage though, I probably only cooked four times a week (3120).That’s a grand total of 8736 meals (you would not believe how difficult that simple bit of math was for me—and I was using a calculator).

The upshot of all this is that I have cooked a lot of food, including many, many, many side dishes.  And at about dinner number 1283, I started getting tired of my customary vegetable dance of, “microwave until hot and add melted butter”.I was desperate for a new song for my tired, boring veggies to waltz to.

I started by overhauling my preparation procedure for bags of frozen vegetables; peas, mixed veg, and other similar types.

First, the microwave got a pink slip.

Except for a very few exceptions, I now cook the veggies, frozen or fresh on the stovetop in a non-stick skillet.  It treats the vegetables with more respect, which always adds more flavor.  It also takes roughly the same effort, and can be prepped and ready to go well in advance.

The formula is simple and works with everything.  You can increase or decrease it depending on the number at your table.

Quick cooked Southern vegmixed veg2 ½ cups frozen vegetable

3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon chicken base

¼ cup water

Pinch of sugar

Salt & pepper

¼ cup fresh herbs, chopped (optional)

Throw everything into a skillet.  Cover, turn on medium-high and cook until the veggies are hot and the liquid is bubbling.  Uncover and cook until the water is cooked off and formed a sauce.  Take off heat, stir in herbs, and serves.  Serves 4.

This technique also works really well with fresh carrots, with only a few tweaks.  Because they take much longer to cook, you need to start with more water.  Also, you can cut them into any size or shape you like (I usually cut them into slices on the bias), but it’s very important that they all have roughly the amount of same surface area, so they finish at the same time.You can also switch out the sweet component, and the spices.  I have used maple syrup, jam, brown sugar, sorghum, and even reduced root beer.  As for spices, nutmeg, Chinese five spice, and pumpkin pie spice all work.  You can mix and match to your family’s taste and what’s in your pantry.  No need to go buy something special, just work with what you have on hand.

Lately, I’ve been buying large bags of rainbow carrots.  The Durham Coop and Whole Foods normally carry them, at about $1 per pound.  You could also use this procedure with another root vegetable like parsnip or beets.

All in together glazed carrotshoney glazed carrots2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into similar sized pieces

¾ cup water

¼ cup butter

1-2 tablespoons buckwheat honey

10-15 gratings of fresh nutmeg

1-2 teaspoons vanilla paste

Salt and pepper

Put everything into a skillet.  Cover and cook on medium-high until the carrots are tender (about 10 minutes).  Uncover and cook until the liquid has reduced to a syrupy glaze.  Check for seasoning and serve.

The last recipe is for green beans.  It’s from my brilliant child, The Kid.  It’s truly my new favorite way to eat them.

The Kid’s marvelous green beansgreen beans

Garlic oil:

2 tablespoons olive oil

4-6 garlic cloves

Put oil in a small pot.  Give each garlic clove a smash to bruise it, and drop it into the pot.  Turn on medium-low.  When the oil begins to simmer, turn off and let sit to cool.  Strain out the garlic.

1 pound green beans

Garlic oil

Salt & pepper

Line a large baking sheet with foil.  Toss beans with garlic oil, salt and pepper.  Spread out on baking sheet.  Place pan under broiler for 4 minutes.  Toss and cook for another 4-5 minutes until they’re cooked and blistered (in spots—not all over).  Serves 2-3.

I hope you enjoy these veggie ideas.  Maybe after the next thousand or two meals, I’ll come up with another new take on an old veg.Thanks for your time.

Grating my cheese

Caution: The following is written not by my normal, Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm, Pollyanna self.  This space has been taken over by my cranky, sarcastic twin who is pretending to be me.

You have been warned.  My conscious is clear.

I don’t know why I keep doing it to myself.  If I were Petey, I would have killed me in my sleep long ago.  But thankfully, he is the very definition of patience and tolerance; so I continue to exist.  There’s this food show on TV that I watch pretty often.  I’ll not name names, but it’s a basic cable cooking program hosted by a man who has supposedly been cooking professionally for thirty-five years, is a wine expert, a culinary instructor, and school executive.

And the entire time his show is on, I grumble and gripe and generally act like every mean girl in every middle school in the whole world.  As oblivious as I can be, even I know I’m thoroughly insufferable.

But my attitude is not uncalled for.  Hear me out; this guy is consistently infuriating.This man must imagine himself the master of Socratic teaching.  Socrates taught by challenging his students with questions.  An awesome, effective tactic if you’re all sitting around a Corinthian column engaging in some verbal give and take in Greek.

But if your butt is on TV don’t continually ask questions, both rhetorical and conversational.  It’s incredibly frustrating and feels condescending. A chyron is that little caption thingy superimposed on the bottom of the TV screen—think sports scores or school closings on your local news.  It’s a tactic heavily used on this show.

But the darn things just pop up willy-nilly with no context or explanation.  All of a sudden “495 calories” will appear.  What is?  Is it one serving of the finished dish?  All the servings?  The last ingredient?  The bourbon and pudding cup this guy had for breakfast?  Is it unrelated to anything and placed there just to make me twitchy?  In the immortal words of Charlie Brown, “Aaugh!”.The man fancies himself an authority on a healthy diet and lifestyle.

So he’ll make this relatively healthy if not entirely delicious-looking tofu chicken salad and slap it on an 8-inch white sub roll.  This dubious bread choice adds buckets of carbs, sugar and sodium, but nothing that’s actually good for you.  I find it very puzzling.  You’d think he know that the whole grain bun would add all kinds of healthful benefits.  So…why?

He uses fat-free cheese.  Fat-free cheese is worse than no cheese at all.  It’s full of chemicals, and has a weird texture, and objectionable flavor.  Fake food just fries my kippers.

Unless it’s as adorable as this fake food…

At the end of every show, after putting a guest on the spot by forcing them to rate his cooking, he does something he calls, “Calories in-calories out”.  He offers such ground-breaking exercise advice as taking a walk after lunch, and taking the dog for a walk.

Really?  No way!  I never thought of that.  And this dog watching you mention.  How exactly does this work?  Should I control my pooch with some sort of restraint?  He’s never gone outside before, does he need a hat or sunscreen?

And while we’re at it, this oxygen stuff I’m hearing about, after inhaling what comes next?  And eating; after chewing, what do I do with all this mushy food in my mouth?And if they can send a man to the moon why can’t they cure the common cold?  And why do fools fall in love?

Thanks for your time.

Siding Irish

They say dogs are incapable of experiencing embarrassment.  So putting a sign around the misbehaving pooch’s neck with a “confession” for the consumption of the internet set is a colossal, mean-spirited waste of time.

So knock it off–it’s not nice.  What if your dog turned the tables and posted humiliating snaps of you eating Lucky Charms in your underwear? But what those Lucky Charms were doing in my boxers I’ll never know.

Normally my self-consciousness knows no bounds.  My default complexion is red-faced.  I am convinced that my entire life is one big blooper reel packaged for the world’s amusement.But when it comes to corned beef, I am decidedly canine.  I could eat my weight of it in front of the queen, and feel nothing but satisfaction.  I could proudly down a Reuben roughly the size and shape of a dorm fridge while chatting with international amazing humans, George and Amal Clooney.

What is this embarrassment of which you speak, Queenie?  George, would you mind passing the potato salad?  I’ll tell you when I’ve had enough!  Shut up!  I can quit anytime I want!

In previous columns, I have sung its praises and waxed rhapsodic about my fine friend, corned beef.So today, in honor of the upcoming holiday, I thought I would share with you, Gentle Reader, my version of a side dish that is even more appropriate and traditional than corned beef at the Saint Patrick’s Day feast.

The process of corning meat is very similar to turning pork into ham.  It’s a way to preserve meat.  But peasants in Ireland could not afford beef.  Cows require a lot of very fertile land.  Pigs don’t need much space, and are not finicky eaters.  So when the Irish were lucky enough to have meat on their table, it was usually some version of preserved pork.When the Irish came to America, they discovered rather than a luxury, canned corned beef (also called bully beef) was cheap food to fill hungry bellies.

In Ireland corned beef has no widespread historical foundation.  But to meet tourists’ expectations (especially American tourists), it can be found in restaurants throughout Ireland.

This side dish though, is pure Irish.  It’s colcannon, which is made with potatoes, cabbage, onions, and bacon.  The ingredients are humble and readily available on the Emerald Isle.  The extra ingredient is time, which costs nothing, but can’t be bought.

When making this, try to have the skillet containing the onions and cabbage completed when the potatoes are finished cooking, so everything is hot enough to both melt the butter and serve.

Colcannon with cabbage two ways

colcannon

6 medium-large red skin or Yukon Gold potatoes

1 large Russet potato

1 head regular cabbage

1 large yellow onion

8 slices bacon

1 stick butter

1 cup heavy cream (approx.)

Salt & pepper to tasteCut bacon into one-inch strips and cook in a skillet on medium-low until fully rendered and perfectly crispy.

While bacon is cooking, cut cabbage in half, and core.  Cut one half into large chunks.  Slice the other half very thin.  

Peel potatoes and cut into similar sized chunks.  Place in a large pot of heavily salted water.  Turn on medium-high and cook until not quite tender.  Put cabbage chunks into the water and cook everything until it is fork tender.  Drain, then put back into pot.After bacon has finished, remove from frying pan, but keep in the fat.  Slice onion into thin half-moons.  Turn skillet to medium-low and add onions and season.  When the onions start to turn golden, add cabbage, season, and cook until the veg are amber colored.

Heat the cream in a small saucepan on low.

Assembly: pour caramelized onions and sliced cabbage into pot with potatoes and chunks of cabbage.  Add 6 tablespoons of butter which you’ve cut up.  Mash with potato masher until mostly smooth, but with a little chunk left.

Stir in cream a little bit at a time (you probably won’t use all the cream).  You want these just a little looser than you want the finished product (the starch in the spuds will tighten it up).  Season, taste, and season again if needed.  Put into serving dish, dot with the remaining butter and sprinkle top with crispy bacon.Serves 6-8 diners.

Like most potato dishes, this one reheats well, and also makes a mighty tasty potato pancake.  But don’t just wait for St. Paddy’s Day to enjoy it.

And about the fact that corned beef isn’t a traditional Irish food…

Don’t care.  Want large amounts anyway.Thanks for your time.

Salad ‘daise

No matter where, or when, if I’m eating out and there are Eggs Benedict on the menu, I order it.  And I always ask for extra Hollandaise.

When I am lucky enough to have potato salad on my plate, I eat everything else then slowly, savoring each bite, consume my potato salad.What do these facts say about me?

  • That if I can see the finish line and the wait isn’t too long, I enjoy a small amount of not-too-delayed gratification.
  • I’m a big fan of silky, well-made emulsification.

This is the fifth and final week of our mother sauce series.  We are wrapping up with my very favorite, Hollandaise.  And although some people might disagree, The Kid and I firmly believe that because of the emulsification in the making of it, mayonnaise belongs in this category as a sort of step-daughterThe info on this sauce is all over the place.  It was either invented in the 1600’s or maybe the 1700’s.  Hollandaise is named for the region in Netherlands, either because it was invented there, or because Holland has the best eggs and butter, which are the two main ingredients.

Traditionally, Hollandaise sauce is not the easiest of mothers.  It involves a double-boiler and whisking raw eggs over heat while retaining the smooth silky texture.  There are few tragedies as heart-rending as the sight of curdled or separated Hollandaise.

So just don’t make it at home, right?

Wrong.Long ago, my mom belonged to a book club.  Not the kind where you sit around in somebody’s living room drinking pinot and discussing the latest Oprah pick.  Books came in the mail.

One month it was a cookbook; The New York Times International Cookbook by Craig Claiborne.  Years later, Mom gave it to me.  I had no idea that the author was considered one of this country’s all-time best food writers.  I also didn’t have a clue that one day I would be a food writer myself.  But, as an extreme novice in the kitchen, I took help and inspiration wherever I found it.

One day while perusing said cookbook, I stumbled upon a recipe for Hollandaise that to me, looked pretty doable.  Instead of the usual procedure that came with a huge possibility of inedible failure, it was made in a blender.

Craig Claiborne’s Blender Hollandaiseblender hollandaiseMakes 4 servings.

Heat one-half cup butter to bubbling; do not brown.  Into container of an electric blender, put two egg yolks, two tablespoons lemon juice, one-quarter teaspoon salt and a pinch of cayenne.  Flick motor quickly on and off twice at high speed.  Remove cover, turn motor on high and add butter gradually, until mixture thickens.  If too thick, add cold water.  Serve with vegetables, fish or eggs.

So it looks like you’ve got raw egg yolks in the sauce.  And if you are a child, pregnant, or have a compromised immune system, just steer clear.

But.

To get the butter nice and bubbly, shoot for 200 degrees (F).  An egg yolk is considered cooked enough to be safe at 145.  The hot butter and the friction from blending should put the yolks clearly in the “safe” category.Like Craig says, the sauce goes great on veggies, fish, and eggs.  But I love it on fried, boneless, skinless chicken breasts and it’s crazy good on any type of pasta.

If you’re like me though, it doesn’t have to be all fancy-fied.  Forget the vessel on which to put it.  Just chug it right out of the blender.Thanks for your time.

Farro from home

Did you know that there are three types of farro?First things first—do you know what farro is?

Farro is hulled wheat.  Wheat is either free-threshing, which means the outer sheath is soft and easy to remove.  Hulled wheat normally includes wild wheat and other ‘ancient grains’.

Evolutionally, hulled wheat is spread by being ingested by birds, digested, which removes most of the husks, then expelled far and wide, which then grow, and the cycle starts all over again.  Unlike civet cat coffee beans, which are culled from the droppings and used as is, the evacuated farro only acts as a seed.

This ain’t no Payday candy bar folks…

Farro is very similar to barley in both taste and texture.  It’s chewy and nutty.  Or, if you cook it a little less, it will be lightly crunchy and nutty.  I prefer softer, because then it’s as comforting as a new pair of flannel pajamas after a warm bath.

And many fans of old school hot cereal have unknowingly eaten bowls of farro in the form of ‘Cream of Farina’.  My mom’s a big fan; growing up, there was always a box in our pantry.    Now, about the varied types.

In Italy, there are three types of farro.   Farro piccolo, farro medio, and farro grande.  They are actually three distinct types of wheat; triticum monococcum, triticum dicoccum, and triticum spelta.

In America, for the most part, farro is farro—sort of.  The largest grain; the triticum spelta, is not sold as farro, but labeled and sold as spelt.  So, all spelt is farro, but not all farro is spelt.speltTo cook farro, I rinse it under cold running water first.  Then I put it in a saucepan using a ratio of one part farro to three parts liquid, either water or stock.  I add a glug of olive oil, a big pinch of kosher salt and a little pinch of freshly cracked black pepper.

I bring it to a boil, reduce heat to a high-ish medium low (4 on a ten-point burner), cover, and cook it 30-45 minutes or until it’s tender, and the liquid is completely absorbed.  I take it off the heat, leave it covered and let it sit for ten minutes or so.

Then you can dress it as you would rice, or any another grain.  Lately, I’ve been digging my spinach-avocado pesto with it.

Spinach-avocado pestoavocado pesto3 ½ cups raw baby spinach

2 avocados

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

5 green onions, roughly chopped

Juice of 2 lemons (about ¼ cup)

¼ cup olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon fresh cracked pepper

1 cup water (approx.)

¼ cup Chinese or regular chives chopped

Microwave spinach for until completely wilted.  Rough chop, and place into food processor.

When the farro has about five more minutes of sitting time, make the sauce. 

Add the avocado meat, green onions, cheese, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper.  Process, adding enough water until it becomes sauce consistency.

Pour sauce over farro and gently stir to coat.  Plate and sprinkle top with chives.

Serves 2-4 depending on side dishes and appetites.

I also like the idea of rendering some bacon or pancetta, and using some of the pork fat to sauté mushrooms, onions and garlic.  Then I mix everything into a fresh pot of farro.  It can be used in the place of barley in recipes.You can also turn this into hot cereal.  Make the farro with skim milk or soy or almond milk, and instead of salt, pepper, and olive oil, use a small pinch of salt, a couple teaspoons of vanilla, and some nutmeg.  Then dress each bowl with honey or maple syrup, and some fresh or dried fruits and maybe some nuts.

You can buy this pre-packaged, but that’s the expensive option.  I like to buy it in bulk.  It’s cheaper that way, and you only buy as much as you need.  For a first-timer, it’s an easy way to get just enough to try it.

Farro is kind of a split personality food.  It’s a comfort food that’s super trendy right now.  It’s as if Aunt Bee dyed her hair pink and became a barista.aunt beaThanks for your time.

A tomato-flavored relic

The Kid has a story about the first year of culinary school.20130721_064325Very early in the year, the budding chefs took a class called, “Introduction to culinary”.  The instructor was one of The Kid’s all-time favorite teachers, Chef Emma.

One day, during Mother sauce week, the students walked in to find their instructor had prepared a surprise for them.  Chef Emma had a small saucepan full of Chef Auguste Escoffier’s Sauce Tomat (French for tomato).

Chef asked them all to grab a tasting spoon and have a sample.

The Kid says the classroom got very quiet.  Nobody said much.  They just started glancing around at each other with funny looks on their faces. By this point, it was pretty obvious that Chef Emma was enjoying herself a little more than she should have been.  “What do you think?  Does this sauce taste familiar?”

The Kid says that in every class there were a couple pupils who were born and reared in Vermont.  These children have never had a pudding cup or a Lunchable.  There is no fast food in most of Vermont.  To them, a subway is an underground train, a cookout is a backyard barbecue, and a sonic refers to a boom.These offspring of the green mountain state were not on the horns of a saucy dilemma.  But the rest of the class was extremely uncomfortable.  They didn’t know it yet, but they all had the same thought about this mother sauce.  They were just afraid to sound silly.

Finally, from the back, one brave, anonymous voice said what they were all thinking.

“It tastes just like Beefaroni!”Yup.  That go-to lunch of American children since the 1930’s, Beefaroni; which was invented by a classically trained chef, Hector Boiardi.

So, what kind of sauce does a classically trained chef put on his tinned Beefaroni?

A classic French mother sauce, natch.

Here is sauce number four:

Escoffier’s Sauce Tomatsauce tomat2-3 ounces salt pork

3 ounces carrots, peeled and diced

3 ounces yellow onion, diced

1 bay leaf

1 sprig thyme

2 ounces butter

2-3 ounces all-purpose flour

5 pounds raw tomatoes, mashed

1 quart veal stock

1 clove crushed garlic

Salt and pepper to taste

Pinch of sugar

Fry the pork in the butter. When the fat has melted, add the carrots, onion, bay leaf and thyme. Cook vegetables, stirring regularly. Add in flour. Once it’s browned, add in tomatoes and veal stock. Stir the ingredients together until well mixed, then bring the sauce to a boil. Add the rest of the seasonings and the clove of crushed garlic. Place in the oven under moderate heat for 90 minutes. Remove the sauce and pass it through a sieve. Butter the top to prevent the formation of a skin.

The Escoffier Instructional Academy is the source for this recipe.  They also list daughter sauces (sauces whose base is a mother sauce—not too sure what a son sauce might be, maybe Tabasco or Colt 45).   There are seven of them listed, including ketchup, barbecue sauce, and vodka sauce.

These days sauce tomat isn’t used for those tomato-based condiments.  The classic version is just too ingredient and labor-intensive.  Even the sauce itself is rarely made and eaten fresh; it’s too heavy and fatty for most tastes.

The word for today, Gentle Reader, is irony.

Measure for measure, the mother sauce which has almost disappeared from classic cooking is probably consumed more than all the other mothers, combined.It’s just consumed in cans of mushy pasta by hordes of little kids.

Thanks for your time.

Lies we tell our children

I have become absolutely shameless. 2-22-2017-cWhen you have a new puppy, you must socialize them with other dogs and humans as much as possible.  And if you have a large breed pooch, it’s even more important.  A sofa-sized dog is already pretty intimidating—it’s the responsibility of the owner to make sure his size is the only thing scary about him

So, anyway, each walk that Crowley and I take has me asking each person we meet, “Would you like to pet my dog?”. 2-22-2017-aLike I said; shameless.

The other day we walked past a house with three kids playing out in the yard.  They’d come to a standstill watching as we walked by.

“Would you like to pet my dog?”Those children jumped back as if I’d offered them a basket full of bubonic plague wrapped in uranium.  The older boy actually put his arm over his face.  “We can’t!  We’re all allergic!”

Now, I don’t know, these kids may really have been boy-in-the-bubble allergic to animals, but it got me to thinking.

That could be some James Bond evil genius level parenting. What do you do if you don’t want a pet and the kids won’t stop begging?

“I’m so sorry, babies.  I’d love to have a house full of dogs, but you’re so allergic, if you come within 20 feet of an animal, your head will explode!”

And that got me thinking about the lies we tell our children to get stuff done, or not done, or just to make our lives a little easier.  I am absolutely not judging.  In fact I have nothing but admiration for a well-played parental scam.My own father ran a multi-year con on me.

He had me totally convinced that he could see me and thus any transgressions, while he was at work.  It’s possible that my inability to get away with anything without dropping a dime on myself made his claim more workable.  It’s hard to deny getting into the Oreos when you’re smiling with a mouth full of black teeth.To make sure my brother and I didn’t go hog wild with our Christmas lists, my mom told us that they had to send Santa a check.  Every parent sent a little extra so poor children could get something, and if we got too greedy they’d get nothing.

At seven, I asked how babies were born.  My father told me his version of how chickens lay eggs.  Let’s just say it’s truly a miracle I ever ate another egg.One mom I knew told her kids that it was illegal for people under the age of eighteen to eat red M&M’s, so hand ‘em over.

My friend’s grandmother told her that the ice cream truck only plays music when all the ice cream is gone.

As a child, I pretty much bought whatever my parents were selling.  My gullibility is something of a family joke.  Petey and The Kid call me Bunny Rabbit because I’m so ridiculously trusting.Which is I guess, why the two lies I tried to tell my own child were judged laugh riots.  But to my thinking, they were extremely credible.

Lie number one, told to a kindergarten aged Kid: Every time you tell a fib, you make baby Jesus cry.Lie number two, trotted out for the first time when The Kid was in middle school: Give me the phone!  I’m calling the adoption bus to come pick you up!

What?  I’d believe me.

See? The adoption bus is a thing

Thanks for your time.

Cooking for who?

“If you are a bride, a business girl, career wife, or a mother whose children are away from home—this book is for you.”

So The Kid and I went to the final book sale at the Main Library a couple weeks ago.  We only bought 17 books, which required a Herculean amount of will power on our parts.  I picked up mainly fiction but I also unearthed and purchased two cookbooks.One was a Puerto Rican cookbook and the other tome was ‘Betty Crocker’s New Dinner for Two Cook Book” published by Golden Press.  They’re also the publisher of Little Golden Books, and those books are half the reason both The Kid and I are unapologetic book worms.

It was printed in 1964.

I think that explains the above quote; which are the very first words in the book.

The ideal 1964 woman; perfect figure, never grows old, never talks back.

But really, Business girl?  And that career better not be anything less feminine than retail sales or typing.  And only until said girl can find a nice man to save her with an engagement ring.

Career wife?  I don’t even know what that is.  I googled it and got bupkis

I got nothing.

Heaven forbid a man steps foot in a kitchen—unless of course, it’s as a chef in a gourmet restaurant.

And the cooking advice and many recipes in the book explain why heart disease, hypertension, and ulcers were epidemic back then.  I think life expectancy must’ve been about 32.

How did you want your steak cooked?

The recommended meat cooking times were truly appalling.

For beef, according to 1964’s Betty, rare is 145.  That’s 20 degrees above today’s temp of 125.  Medium is 160, compared to the current 145.  Well-done is ten degrees above the already leathery 160.

And pork is even worse.

You may know someone who cooks pork not only until is the meat completely dry, it draws all moisture from the diner, leaving them as arid as Steven Wright wearing a sponge suit.The reason for this manic level of caution is a parasitic party crasher named trichinella, which causes trichinosis.  This roundworm can make you the kind of sick wherein you pray for the sweet release of death.

But.

Modern husbandry has virtually eliminated trichinosis in pigs.  But even if it is present in the meat, the parasite is instantly killed by reaching 145 degrees. (145-150 is my goal when cooking pork).  Nowadays the disease is pretty much only contracted by eating bear, dog, or wild felines (I guess domesticated cats are safe eating…).  When was the last time you ate grizzly and grits?  Or poodle pizza?  Fancy a little mountain lion moussaka?

We only serve the freshest, forest-to-table bear.

Yeah…so that.

Unfortunately, in 1964 Betty hadn’t gotten the memo, so recommends cooking all pork to 185 degrees.  At that temp, don’t waste your money on the chops—just gnaw on tumbleweed while watching Porky Pig cartoons.

The only exception to this rule is when cooking a big, slow-cooking piece of meat.  In that case, it has to reach 210 degrees, which is when all the connective tissue; ie, collagen, ie, flavor melts and produces that unctuous, lip-smacking goodness.Many of the recipes were needlessly heavy and rich.  In future columns, I plan to convert some of these recipes to something less processed, tastier, and healthier.

But some things are timeless.  And enjoying a sweet bite is welcome in any decade.  The book had one dessert that to me was as different as it was delicious.  With very few changes from me, here it is.

Betty Crocker’s Praline Squares

praline-bars

¼ cup butter, melted and cooled to barely lukewarm

1 cup light brown sugar

1 egg

¾ cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

The innards of one vanilla bean or 1 tablespoon vanilla extract

½ cup pecans, coarsely chopped and toasted

Large flake sea salt (optional)

Heat oven to 350.  Grease and flour an 8X8 inch baking pan.  In a large bowl, whisk together brown sugar, butter, vanilla, and egg.  Set aside.

Mix together flour, baking powder, and salt.  Mix into brown sugar mixture.  Stir in pecans.  Spread into pan.  Bake 15 minutes, then spin pan 180 degrees and sprinkle top with flaky salt.Bake 8-10 more minutes, or until barely set and browned around the edges.  Let sit 15 minutes then cut into 16 pieces.  Remove from pan after cooling completely.

You know, in my daily life, I rarely run into this kind of antiquated gender pigeonholing.  But then I read a book like this.  And sadly, I have to acknowledge that for some people, those were the good old days.

But there are also folks who think Elvis is alive and kicking, that carob tastes exactly like chocolate, and Connery was the best Bond.

You always remember your first…

Poor, deluded fools.

Thanks for your time.

Subterfuge

I blame the Kardashians.When I was in junior high, cosmetics were a pretty simple affair.  I had a couple bottles of nail polish, one lip gloss in strawberry, one in bubblegum, and one very highly prized cake of purple eye shadow.  And my collection was not unlike those of most pubescent girls.

Then Kim, her mom Kalamity, and sisters Klondike, Keester, Ketchup, and Kandy Korn, with their professionally contoured, surgically enhanced mugs exploded out of their yoga pants and into our living rooms. Now twelve-year-olds have their own You Tube channels where they offer makeup tutorials.  These children, using stuff like primers, BB and CC creams, highlighting and lowlighting, sculpt their faces to look like glowing alabaster Erté statues.

But nothing like themselves.  They become imposters inside their own skin.

Which brings me to this week’s topic.  It’s a delicious meal that looks like something you might order at a trendy restaurant.  But in actuality, it’s insanely easy, and can be completely prepped out hours before dining.  And once that’s done, finishing is literally just the application of heat.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOn the menu is tender, unctuous pork belly, rice pilaf with mushrooms, and spectacularly garlicky haricot verts (that’s green beans, y’all)

The rice took the most time, but was still a breeze.

Bob’s brown and wild rice pilaf with ‘shrooms

1 cup Bob’s Red Mill brown and wild rice

2 ½ cups broth:

   2 ½ cups chicken stock

   2 teaspoons umami or tomato paste

   2 bay leaves

   ½ teaspoon dried thyme

   Big splash Worcestershire sauce

   Salt and pepper to taste

   Put all stock ingredients into saucepan and bring to simmer.  Take off heat and refrigerate until     it’s time to make the ricebobs-rice-and-p-bellyMushrooms:

   16 ounces button or cremini mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

   2 shallots, sliced into half moons

   1 tablespoon butter

   ½ teaspoon dry thyme

   Salt and pepper

   1 teaspoon umami or tomato paste

   ¼ cup dry sherry

  Melt butter in small skillet. Add mushrooms, shallots, thyme, and a pinch of salt and pepper.   Cover and cook for about 5 minutes or until water has been released from veg.  Uncover and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has all cooked in, and ‘shrooms and shallots have caramelized.  Stir in paste, and cook until the color of paste has deepened.  Pour in sherry, stir everything together, and continue to cook until sherry’s cooked off.

At this point, everything can sit and wait for you.  An hour before dinner, finish rice and cook pork belly and beans.

To finish: Stir together rice mix, stock, and mushrooms.  Bring to a boil, cover, lower heat to medium-low and cook for 45-55 minutes or until liquid is gone and rice is cooked through.  Let sit 10-15 minutes, covered. For the past few visits to Trader Joe’s, The Kid and I have been ogling their pork belly.  It’s fully cooked, which is great because cooking belly from Jump Street takes a long time.  And it’s only about 6 bucks or so for a piece large enough for two.  I finally succumbed and picked up one.

The cooking of it was ridiculously simple.  I sliced it into six ¼-inch slices, lightly seasoned with salt and pepper, then threw it into my hot cast iron skillet.  I browned one side, flipped and brown the other.On the same trip I grabbed a bag of their fresh haricot vert.  They come ready to cook (BTW-they’re pretty tasty raw, as well).  I laid them into a non-stick frying pan with a couple tablespoons of water, a tablespoon of butter, ½ teaspoon of chicken base, 4 minced cloves of garlic, salt and pepper.

When the rice was resting and I’d started the belly, I covered the skillet and turned it to medium for about 5-7 minutes.  I then removed the cover, turned the burner to medium-high.  When the liquid had mostly evaporated and had made a light sauce, the beans were done.

So, even though my makeup routine consists of attempting to lube away the ravages of time, and 4 or 5 coats of mascara, I’m all about imposters.As long as it’s camouflaging a quick weeknight meal so that it looks like a fancy labor-intensive dinner, that is.

Thanks for your time.