What’s The Big Green Deal?

Spinach, that’s the big, green deal.Did you know that curly leaf, or savoy spinach almost went extinct?  With the advent of the triple-washed, bagged baby spinach the demand for it among the big produce companies pretty much disappeared.  The flavor is less mild, and all those nooks and crannies on the surface of the leaf makes it hard to thoroughly clean a product which already has a somewhat problematic reputation and history concerning sick-making microbes.But Petey and I both love a classic spinach salad: spinach, sliced button mushrooms, hard-cooked egg, shaved red onion (Petey’s a hold-the-onion man), crispy bacon shards drizzled with freshly made buttermilk ranch.

So, I almost always have some greens in the fridge.  But they go wonky quick, and when most leafy greens get past their prime, there isn’t much to do with them, other than adding them to the compost heap.  But spinach is different.  When I have spinach that’s too shop-worn for salad, I cook it, either sautéed or creamed. I put it into a large microwave safe bowl, cover it with a paper towel and nuke it until it’s completely wilted; somewhere between 2-4 minutes depending on how much I have.  Then I turn it out into a colander to drain and cool.

If I don’t plan on making it right away, I put it in a labeled, dated zip-top bag and freeze it.  If you’re not a big salad eater, you could also skip the whole fresh spinach step, and just buy it frozen. For both sautéed and creamed spinach, you start the same way: onions.  Put some butter or oil into a skillet and add chopped onions.  Season and cook until they begin to caramelize (the more color on the onions, the sweeter they’ll be, you choose).  Then add 2 cups of thawed, wilted spinach that you’ve squeezed most of the water from.  Season and add 10-12 gratings of fresh nutmeg.  For sautéed, let it cook until it’s mostly dry, and a little browned around the edges.  Take off the heat, add the juice of a lemon, check for seasoning, and serve.For creamed spinach:

Start like for sautéed, but after adding the spinach, add about 2/3 cup of 2% or skim milk and ¼ cup cream.  Season and add nutmeg, then stir in ¼ cup of grated Parmesan cheese (not the stuff in the green can).  Let it cook until the spinach is in a nice thick, creamy sauce (about 10 minutes on medium).Take it off the heat and stir in a couple of heaping tablespoons of whipped cream cheese (this will stabilize the sauce).  Then stir in the juice of a lemon.  Check for seasoning and serve as is, or over a baked russet or sweet potato.

Or.My new favorite thing is to use the creamed spinach in the place of pesto in pasta.  Cook the pasta while the spinach is cooking.  When the spinach is finished, and the cream cheese and lemon juice are stirred in, transfer the pasta into the spinach pan with a slotted spoon.  Don’t drain it, because you’ll then use enough of the pasta water to thin out the spinach, and starch in the water makes the sauce silky and it coats the pasta perfectly.  Then top with more parm.It’s really good, and frankly I’m not sure how this took so long to occur to someone who normally has at least seventy-five varieties of pasta in her kitchen at all times.

Next week I’ll tell you what I got up to tonight with a box of Costco mushrooms and a kitchen full of pasta.Thanks for your time.

I Hope You Like Jammin’ Too

mystery man

The Unknown Food Writer.

Each time I write about food, I think of him.  He is responsible for what I do, as much as Petey and The Kid, any editor, supportive family member or friend, or adoring fan (and let me tell you, Gentle Reader, there are tens of them out there—well, maybe ten…including the ones I pay).

He had such an unintended influence on my life, and I don’t even know his name.Many years ago, before food blogs, the explosion of food writing, and even mass usage of the interwebs, I read a column in my local newspaper.  It was about onions.

But it was more than just a recipe, or a spread in a magazine.  It was a story.  A story that was a glimpse into the life of the writer.  He was an empty nester; his daughter was away at college.The story began with his daughter coming home on a break.  And she immediately dove into the refrigerator.  She pulled out a jar of this dark brown marmalade-like substance that was obviously homemade.  It intrigued, but was completely unknown.When she asked him, he informed her it was caramelized onion jam.  That it was incredibly easy but took hours to prepare.  That it might resemble run of the mill fried onions but it was so, so much more.

Then, in the column he offered the recipe.  I’ve made it many times over the years.  And, in the ensuing decades, I’ve tweaked the recipe according to my tastes and made it my own.

Amended Onion Jamonion jam

5 pounds yellow onions

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ teaspoon salt + more to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper + more to taste

½ teaspoon dried thyme

1/3 cup dry Marsala winePeel the onions, cut them in half and slice into ¼ inch half-moons.  Put them all into large, heavy Dutch oven with tightly fitted lid.  Pour in oil.  Add salt, pepper, and thyme. Stir together to coat.  Place on stove and turn to 2-3 or medium-low.  Cover and cook for about 20 minutes.  You’re looking to get all the water out of the onions.  Uncover, give it a stir, and take a look.  If it’s not ready, recover and cook more, checking every 10 minutes or so.When the onions are wilted-looking, and swimming in an inch or two of liquid, uncover.

Continue to cook, stirring every 15-20 minutes.  Keep cooking until they are the color of an untoasted pecan, with flecks or caramel (2-3 hours).  At this stage the onions will be cooked down to two cups or less.Turn burner up to just over medium (6-ish).  Let the pan heat up, then pour in the Marsala.  Scrape up browned bits on the pan bottom and cook wine is gone and the jam is a nice deep caramel color.  Taste and re-season, if necessary.

Store onions in airtight container in fridge for 1 week or freeze for 2 months.The jam is really good on burgers and grilled cheese.  Use as a flavoring in mayo, humus, or salad dressing.  Replace regular onions in smothered pork chops or country-style steak.  Can you say, French Onion Soup?  And I love it on pizza, and a million other things.One word of caution: a little goes a very long way, don’t go overboard.  And this is coming from someone who loves onions.  It is possible to use too much—so start light, taste, and add more if needed.

Not only did the unknown food writer give me this wonderful, useful recipe, he gave me a whole new way to think about writing and a second act career.

So, thank you Mr. Jam Man.  Wherever you are!Thanks for your time.

Is It Brunch? Or Dunch?

It would be really easy for me to give you the polite, for-company explanation; “Petey worked 7P-7A for so many years, it reset our circadian rhythms.

But, despite the fact that it may pinch, or embarrass, or make me sad, I always endeavor to tell you, Gentle Reader, the truth.  So, here’s the dog-honest truth.From the day I was born (in the late afternoon, I might add), mornings and I have had a sincerely adversarial relationship.  1AM is the shank of the evening, and my morning does not comfortably start until at least 12-1PM.

Growing up, it drove my folks around the bend trying to get me out of bed for school.  When The Kid was in school I bemoaned the absolute lack of night school for second-graders.It’s just how I’m built.  I worked 7A-3P in a hospital lab for a year.  People told me that after a while, I’d get used to it and become a morning person.  I hated and dreaded every single day of it.

Every.Single.Day.Luckily, Petey has a matching loose screw.  We actually take turns getting up early (for us); first with our child, and now with our dog.

And, I usually eat a little something upon rising.  But, I’m not sure what to call it.

By the time I get up, walk the dog, take care of a few things, I sit down with a light meal somewhere north of 2PM.  So, is it breakfast? Brunch? Lunch? Is it dunch (dinner/lunch)?Breakfast for dinner, though, I have no problem naming.  Heck, I love breakfast for dinner so much, I’d happily call it Fred.

Fred’s a wonderful meal.  It’s easy to cook; because every item’s normally one cooking technique.  And there’s a lot of stove-top cooking, which keeps you close so that you’re forced to keep an eye on things. So, here are a few tips and methods that will make your breakfast for dinner a treat, and not a penance.

1.) For scrambled eggs; use a blender so there’s no weird white stuff.  Use a tablespoon of butter for every two eggs.  Season the eggs right after they go in the pan.  Stir constantly, cook quickly, and keep them a little wetter than you want to eat them, as they’ll continue to cook on the plate.2.) Hash browns; melt butter in a skillet, then toss shredded potatoes and onions in butter to coat.  Cook in a flat cake, flip when browned, and cook on the other side.  At a stove-top setting of 3.5-4, they should take about 15-20 minutes to cook.

3.) If you have some not-so-fresh biscuits or scones, melt butter in a pan, place in biscuits, cover, lower temp to 3 or so, and cook for just a couple minutes.  This will heat it through and crisp one side.  Remove cover, add more butter to pan, then flip and crisp on the other side.4.) If you take nothing else from this epistle, clean up as you go along.  Breakfast can make a mess of your kitchen.  Keep your counters cleared and wiped.  Throw food waste in the compost or trash can right away, not the sink—that stops the quick rinsing and washing up that will save your sanity. Get your prep work done and cleaned up before cooking anything.  Set your table and have beverages and condiments ready.  If you use a dishwasher, have it empty and ready to receive the oncoming storm.So, call it breakfast for dinner, call it Fred, call it Agent Colson, just don’t forget to call me when it’s on the menu.

Thanks for your time.

Delirious Dessert

Mobile family

This is us.

After putting a roof over our heads, feeding five mouths, and having a daughter with a serious Barbie habit (me), there wasn’t a ton of money in my family for sugary treats at the grocery store.

When I was a child, my dad was in the Coast Guard, risking his life so that others may live. This meant he was subject to the will of the US government.  Recently, we’ve seen this fact driven home in a manner that illustrates it far better than I ever could. But, this meant there was one parent who could be called to the base in an emergency with no idea when he would return home.  Because of this, my mother was a stay-at-home mom.

What we lacked in cash, mom made up in time.  My mom likes to have, what she calls, “a little sweet around the house”.  We rarely had store-bought confections though; instead, she baked. Simple, cheap, tasty things from stuff we usually had in the house, like bread pudding, popsicles from Jell-O, preacher cookies, and cream puffs.  One of our favorites was her wacky cake that she topped with fudge frosting.

When The Kid was in elementary school, learning about the WWII Homefront, we discovered that the cake, with its lack of eggs, and dairy, had been a “Victory” recipe that rationing made popular.One awesome thing about my mom: she believes it’s perfectly acceptable to have pie, cake, or even rice crispy treats for breakfast (See? Awesome.).  Occasionally Mom would splurge on a specific store-bought treat for weekend breakfast.

It was orange rolls in a can.  Bake, and when still warm, frost with this drippy, drizzly orange icing.  I love those darned things.  Just the smell of them make me feel like a little kid eating breakfast at the kitchen table in my flannel nightgown.Recently I stumbled upon a vanilla version of my mother’s wacky cake.  Adding cinnamon makes it more similar to those orange rolls.  Last fall I went to Fearrington Village farmer’s market and met Nathan Simons, who with his wife Audrey, creates silky, flavored nut butters.  My favorite is their hazelnut/orange.  Which reminds me of those canned orange rolls, but in the very best, most delicious way.IMG_1502.jpgFind Simons Says Nut Butters at www.simonssaysspreadthis.com.

Vanilla-Cinnamon Kooky Cake with Hazelnut-Orange Fudge Frostingvanilla wacky cake1 & 1/2 cups + 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

¾ teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon white vinegar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

5 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 cup water

Preheat oven to 350.

Grease 8-inch square baking pan. Mix dry ingredients in pan. Then make three depressions in them. Pour vinegar in one, vanilla in another and vegetable oil in third. Then pour water over top and mix until smooth.

Bake 35 minutes. Cool completely and then top with frosting.

Fudge Frosting:hazelnut orange butter1 & 1/2 cups sugar

7 tablespoons milk

2 tablespoons shortening

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

½ cup Simons Says hazelnut orange butter

Once cake is cool, combine sugar, milk, shortening, butter, and salt in heavy saucepan. Bring to rolling boil while stirring constantly.

Once it boils, stop stirring and let boil for two minutes or until soft ball stage (235 degrees F.).

Remove from heat and add vanilla and hazelnut butter. Beat by hand until smooth and quickly spread over cake.The Kid will tell anybody who asks, Grampa’s a superhero.  The Kid’s not far off.  If you know someone who served their country in the Coast Guard or another branch, say thanks.  Or better yet, give them a piece of this cake.Thanks for your time.

What Can Brown Do For You?

My mother would be convinced that the veggies were burnt and should be discarded.  This would result in my father running over to Food Lion to acquire more microwavable veggies as the family sits around the dinner table and Mom frets about everything getting cold and dried out.

It’s because she has the lowest of thresholds of what burned is.If her baked macaroni and cheese has brown spots on the top, it’s burned.  If rolls go beyond the lightest of caramel-color, they’re burned.  And if veggies get a barely perceptible touch of char, they’re burned and ruined.

Except.

Except, as Chef Ann Burrell delights in proclaiming in a fake, growly, bear-like voice, “Brown food tastes good!”.The Maillard (my-yard) reaction is when amino acids and sugars mix with heat and to a certain extent, pressure, making those delicious, delicious brown markings on food.

If you want to know how important and tasty the Maillard reaction is, think about a hot, melty grilled cheese, on limp blond, not browned, but crispy bread.  Or, flaccid bacon.  Enjoy grill marks?  Maillard reaction.Due to exposure to my mom’s brown food aversion, and my own, near-certifiable level of impatience, I came exceedingly late to the brown food fan club.

But I’m now recording secretary.

It’s easy to get a nice brown crust on meat, no matter how long it needs to cook, the recipe you’re using, or the method of preparation.All you need is a metal pan (a cast iron is best here) that’s screaming hot and a little oil.  Dry both sides of the meat, put the thinnest coats of oil on it, then season both sides.  Place the pieces in the pan without crowding them, which will steam them, rather than sear.  They should be no closer than ½ inch.  And the more contact meat makes to hot surface, the more of it will be brown.

Then cook the meat on each side until there’s a beautiful, deeply caramel-colored crust.  Flip, and cook the other side.  Finish cooking according to directions. Brown veggies though, are my newest obsession.

It all started with some frozen, multi-colored Trader Joe’s cauliflower.

The directions said to put a bit of vegetable oil in the pan to cook them.  But, we really love cauliflower with brown butter, so I put a few tablespoons in the pan and let it brown.  Then I put in the still frozen cauliflower, turned it down to about 4, and covered it.When the cauliflower was heated through, I uncovered the pan and turned it up to about 6.  There was a little water in the skillet from the veg which I wanted to cook off.  This is where I had the happy accident.

I was preoccupied with getting the rest of dinner put together, so I neglected the cauliflower, and it cooked longer than normal (for me).When I got back to it, it had developed beautiful browning.  In the past, I never cooked vegetables until they picked up color.  But, instead of deciding it was burned and discarding it, I just flipped it to expose another part to the pan.

The result was a side dish that Petey is still talking about.You can do this with both frozen and fresh.  But it must be a harder veg, like broccoli, cauliflower, or carrots.  A more tender veggie like peas, will turn gray.  So cook them gently, then roll them in brown butter.  They’ll pick up the maillard flavor without going all elementary school cafeteria food on you.

Chef Ann Burrell and chocolate can’t both be wrong.  Brown is good.And, not burnt.

Thanks for your time.

Oh, Fudge!

If you’ve ever wondered how long fudge can stay in the freezer, I have the answer.

Not sixteen months.

Have you ever seen those giant teeth at the dentist’s office?  You know the ones that are about a foot tall, which open to a cross section of the different parts of a tooth? Well, it’s a life-size model of my sweet tooth.

When it comes to chocolate fudge, there are two different types.  There’s creamy fudge; the kind with marshmallow cream—quick and easy.

Then there’s traditional, classic fudge cooked in a pot on the stove until it reaches a very specific temperature.  Then it’s beaten vigorously.  It can go wrong much easier than right. At the state fair, All-American Fudge makes a stellar example.  It’s better than any old-school version I could make, so I let them do it.  Every year I buy two pounds, bring it home, triple-wrap and freeze it.  I then ration it like it’s the very last pizza at a Super Bowl party.

Well, last year I rationed it too well, and when the fair rolled around, I had about a pound left, so I didn’t buy any more.  Thus, sixteen-month-old awful fudge that broke my heart and left me without fair fudge for Eight.More.Months.But.

There are two fudges of the easy, marshmallow cream variety that are close to my heart.

The first is a PB&J fudge.  I shared my recipe with Lisa Prince, who along with Brian Shrader does a segment every Friday on WRAL’s noon news, called Local Dish.  This was last Friday’s dish.

Peanut Butter & Jelly Fudgepb&j fudge1 7-ounce jar marshmallow cream

1 11-ounce package white chocolate chips

¾ cup creamy peanut butter

¼ cup crunchy peanut butter

¾ cup butter

2 ½ cups granulated sugar

pinch of kosher salt

1 cup heavy whipping cream

¾ cup jelly, jam, or preserves of your choice

Line 8-inch square baking dish with parchment paper. Set aside.

In large mixing bowl, add marshmallow cream, white chocolate chips and peanut butters. Set aside.In large saucepan, combine butter, sugar, salt, and whipping cream. Bring to boil over medium-high heat. Boil for 4 full minutes.

Pour boiling mixture over ingredients in mixing bowl. Using electric mixer, beat for 1-2 minutes, until completely smooth and creamy.pb&j swirlPour half of mixture into baking dish. Drop spoonsful of jam. Using a knife, lightly swirl into the fudge. Top with remaining fudge and dollops of the rest of the preserves. Gently swirl again with knife, just until marbled.Refrigerate 4 hours, or overnight, until set. Cut into bites. Store in airtight container in refrigerator up to a week.

The other fudge is a long-time favorite; chocolate peanut butter.  It’s easy and tastes so darn good.

Chocolate Peanut Butter Fudgechoc pb fudge3 cups sugar

4 tablespoons cocoa

1 tablespoon butter

¾ cup milk

1 cup peanut butter

1 cup marshmallow crème

*When measuring peanut butter and marshmallow cream, spray measuring cup and spatula with cooking spray to facilitate removal from cup.

Mix together first 4 ingredients in saucepan. Bring to rolling boil. Boil exactly 3 minutes. Remove from heat and add marshmallow creme and peanut butter. Stir until melted then pour into buttered 8X8 pan. Let cool.The secret to this is to boil exactly 3 minutes. Use a timer. I’m not joking.

I’m sad and disappointed about my fair fudge.

But.

When I get my next fudge stash, I can’t bear to get less than two pounds, and I know it doesn’t last forever in the freezer.  So, like it or not, to avoid wasting food, I’ll be forced to eat more fudge more often. What a bummer.

Thanks for your time.