A Marshmallow World

I watch an awful lot of Food Network.  If I didn’t write about food, and could call it professional research, someone would probably stage an intervention.

I really enjoy the competition shows.

Chef Madison, and below, Chef Lance.  The two greatest Chopped competitors in the show’s history.  If you ever have the opportunity to watch the episode, It will be one of the best hours of your life, I promise.

I try not to miss Chopped.  Four chefs get a basket of four mystery ingredients in each round.  In the first they make an appetizer, then the least successful dish and its chef are eliminated.  The second round is main course, after which another elimination.  Finally, two chefs prepare dessert, and the best group of three dishes and their chef wins.

The Magnificant Melissa.

The Next Food Network Star isn’t quite what it used to be, but I’ll always be grateful for Melissa D’Arabian’s year; the woman is a culinary genius.  Every recipe she makes looks great, and we’ve never made one of hers that wasn’t a winner (So was Melissa.  She won the season.).

They also have seasonal baking contests, multi-week elimination mini-series for Spring, Halloween, Winter holiday, and possibly arbor day, they start to blur together.On one year’s Thanksgiving/Christmas/Chanukah super bowl, there was a competitor named Jason from Kentucky.  He has a large personality.  He’s also very country.  His accent is extreme, and he’s full of folksy sayings about his “mama” and various critters, with a whole lot of “Lord Honey’s” thrown in for good measure.  I felt it all seemed a tad studied and a little exaggerated for the non-Southern viewers.

 

Jason Smith Hanging with fellow Food Network Celebs.

At his more over the top, dramatic pronouncements and pronunciations I would sometimes emit a few “pronouncements” of my own.

But you’ve got to give the man his due.  That guy could cook.  He had knowledge, skill, and imagination.  He could give a little twist to a classic French pastry and make it new for the judges.  He also made almost perfect versions of Southern, down-home desserts like pecan tassies, coconut cake, and chess pie.He was in the final round and they had to make a big showy cake.  He made a clever Santa’s workshop with elf silhouettes in the windows set in a snow-blown winter scene.  One of the decorations were piles of fluffy frosting piped to look like snow drifts.

He made it with the second of my favorite non-spongy marshmallow foods: marshmallow frosting.  He called it by its alternative nomenclature; seven-minute frosting.  This stuff is not only pretty and compulsively delicious, it’s less sweet than normal frosting and fat-free.

Chef Jason and his prize-winning cake.

It won him the contest.

Marshmallow Frosting

4 large egg whites

1 cup granulated sugar

Big pinch of cream of tartar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

marshmallow frosting 2018

Put mixing bowl over slowly simmering pot of water—double boiler style.  Whisk together eggs and sugar until sugar’s dissolved, and it’s warm to the touch.

Put on mixer with whisk attachment and beat until it’s glossy and holds a stiff peak (5-7 minutes).  Mix in salt and vanilla.  Immediately frost cooled cupcakes.  Piping the icing makes it go much quicker, and they’re especially pretty that way.

It doesn’t set up and form a protective skin like buttercream. If you’re traveling with the frosted item, either take extreme care, or use a kitchen torch or the broiler to toast and set it.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt was a huge hit with the judges, Duff Goldman, Lorraine Pascale and Nancy Fuller.  Duff Goldman, a trained chef and owner of the fabulously successful Charm City Cakes said he had never had seven-minute frosting before but was a true convert.

Duff being a marshmallow frosting neophyte is odd, to say the least.  The recipe I use is based on Martha Stewart, who may be a lot of things but she sho ’nuff ain’t no Southern girl.

Martha, Snoop, and their homemade “brownies”.

Thanks for your time.

One Compassionate Someone

A few weeks ago I went to a dinner and met Erin Rolandelli.

And, she impressed me and inspired me as much as anyone I’ve ever met.

Growing up as the baby of the family in Greensboro, Erin relished the opportunity to be the teacher when they played school.  Then her AP English teacher inspired her to pursue teaching as a career.In college, the students had to be placed in a classroom to observe and learn from seasoned vets.  She was given an ESL (English as a second language) class.

“And it was the best semester ever! I connected with the students out of empathy, by putting myself in their shoes, and for the first time being exposed to the question of, how are they surviving in a world that’s all in English? And, what are we actually doing to help them?”

After getting her master’s degree Erin spent two years in the classroom.window building room interior abandoned wood books house lamp classroom dirt dust vintage religious stairs interior design Holy Bible desk chapel floor mansion screenshot“It was gritty.  It was what I expected it to be, and not what I expected it to be, all at the same time.”

One thing that Erin didn’t expect was the federally mandated testing which took her out of the classroom for hours at a stretch to do individual assessments.  The lack of funding and available teachers left the classrooms without supervision and halted forward progress of the children for the duration of the testing.Erin wanted to keep her kids engaged and learning.  She was informed budget cuts in the coming year made any improvements impossible.

This led Erin to make the wrenching decision to leave the profession.  She needed to find another way to help children without the bureaucracy and its regulations that sometimes to her seemed more harmful than doing nothing at all.

Chais Beloso

One Compassion was founded by Reid and Jaclyn Smith.  Board member and acquaintance Chais Beloso thought Erin’s heart and abilities made a good fit with the group and brought her on.

The idea became One Compassion, an organization in Clayton with a looser, less structured mission than many other institutions.  The brief comes down to an individual’s need and adjusts accordingly.One of the things they discovered to be a need and if fulfilled, a game changer for children was mentoring.  An adult that children can rely on to have their backs, be a support, but also have expectations for them and hold them accountable.

When each child has someone dedicated to them personally, many of the struggles they face can be identified early and solved or ameliorated.  Or at the least, someone is by their side and on their side.Right now, One Compassion is working to make sure every family in the county has a Christmas.  That parents have the joy of providing for their children.  What that may look like is individual to each family.  To determine needs, Erin works with them, her team, and their resources.  It could be funds for groceries, help with gifts, or even a repair to a broken window so the children can be nestled all snug in warm beds.

33 Chistmases

The completed Christmas project, ready for delivery.

I offer One Compassion, and Erin’s active, vital, personal compassion as an inspiration and if needed, a kick in the pants.

Look around.  You can see where your help is needed.  Whether it’s time, money, resources, or an invitation to dinner.  Whether it’s One Compassion, The Food Bank of Central & Eastern North Carolina, or the elderly woman at your church with no family and dwindling resources.

Erin desires to bring change to the world, and after spending time with her, I believe she will.  The least we can do is bring change to our world.sleigh st nickThanks for your time, and have a wonderful holiday season and a joyous and peaceful new year.

Contact Erin and One Compassion at info@onecompassion.com.

 

Frothy and White

It’s much maligned, but sugar can be deceptively beneficial.

Before you even bring the sack into the kitchen, sugar can do some impressive things:

Drinking sugar water before vaccinations can help babies better handle the pain of the shot.Sugar sprinkled over wounds kills infectious microbes and speeds healing.

Did you dig in to that pizza too quickly?  Sucking on a sugar cube can relieve the pain of a burned tongue.

As a scrub, it’s miles better than anything you can pick up at Sephora.  Mix with a little olive oil into a loose paste and it can exfoliate lips, smooth rough elbows, and knees, and even get paint and grease off hands.And sugar, almost all by itself can make lots of dreamy dishes.

Caramel.  At its most basic, it’s nothing more than straight cooked sugar.

Add butter, cream and manipulate cooking procedure and you produce everything from pralines, to vanilla fudge, to dulce de leche. Hard candy, or what the Brits call “boiled sweets” are just cooked sugar with a little color and flavor.  Taffy is cooked sugar pulled, stretched and aerated.  Cotton candy is sugar, melted and spun into gossamer strands.

Last week I spoke about another face sugar can present to the world—the marshmallow.  But the rubbery aspect of its personality is off-putting to me and lots of others.  I also mentioned that I’ve discovered how to get the delicate flavor and soft fluffiness without the creepy elasticity.The first way is through the divine meringue.  Not the topping for lemon pie, although they both begin life the same way; egg whites beaten into foam with sugar slowly added.  For the candy meringues, you pipe out individual portions and then bake them so low and slowly they dry out and pick up no browning.  Think of them as giant, irresistible Lucky Charm marshmallows.The recipe is easy.  But preparation is more often than not, a heartbreaker.  If it’s humid, they’ll never completely dry out.  If they’re not all consistent sizes, some may brown, while others may stay soft in the middle.  They literally attract and retain moisture from the air, so must be stored with extreme care.

I normally get a 25% success rate.

Yeah, a serving is considerably less than the entire tub…

So, I seldom make them anymore.  They can be bought at grocery stores, pre-made and packaged in air-tight tubs.  They’re inexpensive, and usually get me into loads of trouble.  Despite vows of moderation when purchasing, many tubs have been devoured within 12 shameful hours of acquiring.

So, I try not to do that anymore, either.

The actual case o’ meringues

Now, I purchase handmade meringues from this amazing bakery, La Castellana (It means the lady from Castile), on highway 98 in Durham.  They have an entire case of them the exact size and shape of a Big Mac and in all the colors of the pastel rainbow.  I’m a purist and always go vanilla, but each color denotes a flavor, like lemon, strawberry, and blueberry.

The price of these sugary behemoths?One paltry dollar.  And the place is so full of other scratch-made delights you’ll find loads of other treats on which to spend the rest of your dollars—so be careful.

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A chocolate rice crispy cupcake with my marshmallow frosting.

Next week I’ll talk about another avenue to get your marshmallow on without that weird texture thing.  It’s marshmallow frosting.  Fat-free, less sweet than buttercream, and delicious on a multitude of vehicles, including beaters, spatula, and fingers.  Despite the showy appearance, it’s easy to make at home.  And, I’ll tell you how.I’m always a little skeptical about those sweeping “metaphor for life” pronouncements.

But consider if you will, the cooking of sugar; it’s messy, dangerous, time-consuming and at times boring.  But the payoff, which can come in infinite varieties, is so, so sweet.Thanks for your time.

It’s Party Time!

birthday-balls.jpg

This week’s Indy has a piece of mine that I’ve been working on for a while, had a great time with, and am pretty chuffed at how it came out.  If you’re in the area, pick up a copy because the art folks and my editor turn it into a really cool spread.

If you’re away, here’s the link so you can take a peak.

See you next week.cheeseball.jpgThanks for your time.

The Getaway

When I was little I had a bit of an overbite.

That’s not true.

I had a “bit” of an overbite in the same way the American Revolution was a slight disagreement over the preparation of tea.  I had two enormous front teeth that stuck out at 45-degree angles. As soon as my last baby tooth was replaced by the adult version an orthodontist outfitted me with enough metal wires and bands to build a suspension bridge over the Atlantic.

After two years of constant, unrelenting mouth-based torture, my teeth were straight.

But in elementary school, many in my class, under the imaginative, malevolent leadership of Clifford B. Jones mercilessly teased me about my appearance.  One day he got the entire lunchroom to take the carrots from their lunch trays and give them to me.Fittingly (or alarmingly, depending on which side of the blue paper bib you fall), my tormenter grew up to become a dentist.

My teeth were so notable that when Petey and I announced our engagement, a friend of his who’d known me before dental intervention apprised him of my previous, unaltered state and asked him to think about the teeth of any potential children.

Back in kindergarten though, my choppers were unabashedly bucked.  At the time, we were living in Mobile, Alabama.Mobile’s weather is tropical and outdoor activities occur all year long.  One December evening, my parents planned to take my big brother Homer, me, and our eighteen-month-old brother to a Christmas carnival.

Our family car was an Opel.  It was a small, serviceable sedan.  Homer had recently begun driving, and my parents had given him permission to drive us all to the event.

It looks like something a victorious cosmonaut would drive, doesn’t it?

Mom and Dad were bustling around getting me and my baby brother ready to go.  My big brother, just like every kid with a new license was chomping at the bit; he wanted to be behind the wheel, even if he was just chauffeuring his boring family.

He was kind of driving us all crazy.

Finally, Dad told him to go outside and start the car. Homer opened the front door to go out and immediately spun around and yelled, “Somebody’s siphoning gas out of the Opel!”

My dad took off running like somebody set his keister on fire.  Like they were giving out free ice cream cones.  Like Joey Heatherton (google her) was on the front lawn.

And, I took off right behind him, ‘cause I never met a leap I felt the need to look at.impulsiveWe stepped out of the front door and saw two figures running away.  We ran to the car, Dad jumped into the driver’s seat, Homer jumped in next to him, and put me on his lap.

We were a posse of three out to catch gas rustlers.

Dad started the car, threw it into reverse and stomped the gas.  We flew out of the carport.By the time we got to the end of the driveway, it was clear that our hunt was over.

The perps had disappeared into the night.

And.

At the abrupt acceleration of the car, my face slammed into the dash, firmly embedding my very prominent two front teeth into it, almost up to the gums.To release me, they popped my face out of the car like a champagne cork, and we headed back inside.

There were two things resulting from the evening.  The miscreants had run off leaving our gas, along with a brand-new, shiny, galvanized metal bucket.  I think my folks still have it.

And left in the dashboard until the day they sold the Opel were two remarkably deep, tooth-shaped impressions.Thanks for your time.

Squishy & White

I should maybe feel delighted that at my advanced age, I’m still discovering things about myself.

But, because this realization was pretty much a gimme, I instead feel resigned and annoyed.  The sound “duh” comes painfully to mind.

What, Gentle Reader is this thunderbolt of personal awakening?It concerns marshmallows. 

I’ve always disliked the fluffy cylindrical confections. I’m not a fan of s’mores.  I’ve always steered clear of those seasonal chocolate covered candies.  And when toasting them over a campfire, I’d toast, eat the crispy caramelized shell only, and repeat.

But.But, I’m a fiend for rice crispy treats.  Those Lucky Charms marshmallows make my heart skip a beat. I even enjoy toasted marshmallow Jelly Bellies.

I have actually bought them like this before.  Spoiler alert: eat ’em quick, they go sad and soft quickly.

It took more than half a century, but I finally figured out my beef with those pillow-y confections.

I’d begun making marshmallows.  I packaged them in Christmas bags to go with homemade hot cocoa.  They’re kind of impressive, but once you get a reliable recipe (Alton Brown’s; natch), they’re easy to make.

Alton’s Homemade Marshmallowsmarshmallows 2018

3 packages unflavored gelatin

1 cup ice cold water, divided

1 ½ cups granulated sugar

1 cup light corn syrup

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 vanilla bean, scraped, reserving pod

½ cup confectioners’ sugar

Nonstick spray

Place gelatin into bowl of stand mixer with ½ cup water.

In small saucepan combine remaining water, granulated sugar, corn syrup, salt, and empty vanilla pod. Place over medium high heat, cover and allow to cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Uncover, clip a candy thermometer onto side of pan and cook until mixture reaches 240 degrees, approximately 7 minutes. Once mixture reaches temp, immediately remove from heat and remove vanilla pod.Turn on mixer.  Using whisk attachment, turn on low speed and, while running, slowly pour sugar syrup down side of the bowl into gelatin mixture. Once you’ve added all the syrup, increase speed to high. Continue to whip until mixture becomes very thick and is lukewarm, approximately 10 to 13 minutes. Add the vanilla bean caviar during last minute of whipping. While mixture’s whipping prepare pan:Put confectioners’ sugar into small bowl. Lightly spray 13 by 9-inch metal baking pan with cooking spray. Cover with a piece of oiled foil.  Add sugar and swirl to coat bottom and sides.  Save remaining sugar for later.

When ready, pour mixture into prepared pan, using oiled spatula for even spreading. Dust top with enough remaining sugar to lightly cover. Reserve the rest again.  Allow marshmallows to sit uncovered for a few hours before cutting.Once candy’s set, place a piece of parchment onto large cutting board.  Turn marshmallows out and peel off foil.  Dust bottom and sides with more powdered sugar.  Using powdered sugar dusted pizza cutter, cut 8 pieces wide and 4 long.  As you cut, place into zip-top bag with powdered sugar in it.  Gently shake to coat.  Place onto parchment to fully set.

*For fancy flavored candies, switch out vanilla for other flavors, such as peppermint, almond or orange.  You can also put spices into the confectioners’ sugar, like cinnamon, Chinese five-spice, or cayenne.  Or use cocoa powder instead of powdered sugar.What I discovered about marshmallows is I love the flavor.  It’s the texture that weirds me out.  That spongy, bounce-back, “it’s alive and will devour you” feeling—I can’t even.  I do not like food that feels like it’s fighting back.

And I’ve discovered and begun making two scrumptious items that have all the marshmallow taste and none of that marshmallow-y “sentient and plotting against me” consistency.

Next week I’ll talk about them and share the recipes.Thanks for your time.

Book ‘em, Danno

About twenty Christmas’ ago I was working in a Waldenbooks at the mall.  A grandmother, her children, and her approximately ten-year-old grandchild came in told me they were looking for a book as a gift to a family friend.

I got a rough idea of what they needed and showed them the correct area.

Then I turned to the little girl and said to her, “Let me take you to the kids’ area, and you can look around while the grownups shop.”With a keening howl that sounded like it was violently flayed from her very soul, she responded, “But I haaaate booooks!”

In response to that, Gentle Reader; I had nothing.

At first, it was kind of funny. In retrospect it was one of the saddest moments I’ve ever experienced.  In this child’s entire life, no one, not family member nor teacher had helped her discover how magical books could be.

With a book, a child will never lack for entertainment or friends.  They can learn in the least painful, most enjoyable way possible.  Reading grows imaginations and shrinks ignorance. I believe that not exposing a child to books and encouraging them to read is a form of child abuse.  It will handicap them for life.

If there’s a child in your life, buy them lots of books.  If you have funds but no children to buy for, donate books to homeless shelters, hospitals, or become Johnny Bookyseed and leave books in random places where children will find them.  Put a little post-it note on the cover telling kids that their found book now belongs to them.And, if children’s literature is terra incognita for you, I have some reading level-based suggestions.

Birth-3: Love You Forever by Robert Munsch and Sheila McGraw.  It is biologically impossible to read this book without choking up, so bring a hanky.

Wait! Maybe that’s why I love bears so much…

The Mitten by Jan Brett.  This was a favorite of mine as a child.

The Velveteen Rabbit by Margery Williams

Early Readers: Dr. Seuss was the master of helping kids learn to read.  You can’t go wrong with anything by him.The Sesame Street Dictionary by Linda Heyward.  This is a terrific tool for learning to read.  All the words are charmingly illustrated.  Kids will spend hours teaching themselves to read by accident.

First chapter books: Billy and Blaze books by C.W. Anderson, stories of a boy and his horse.It’s crazy old school, but the Bobbsey Twins, by Laura Lee Hope.

Childhood of Famous Americans (COFA), from George Washington to Wilma Rudolph (various authors), reading one of these always made me want to know more.Experienced Child readers: The Great Brain series by John D. Fitzgerald: From the point of view of his little brother, the Brain’s an adolescent confidence man living in the late 1880’s.

For horse crazy kids, any book by Marguerite Henry.  Also, the My Friend Flicka trilogy by Mary O’Hara.

And Elizabeth Enright’s series about the Melendy family beginning with The Saturdays.The Betsy series, by Maud Hart Lovelace span all reading levels.  They start with Betsy as a very young girl told in a simple picture book, and progress in age and level until Betsy is a married woman.  She’s one of my most treasured childhood friends.A childhood deprived of books is a tragedy.  To help instill the love of the printed word is a huge, heroic act that will forever change a child’s life.To become a hero, Hercules had to kill a bunch of stuff, clean the stables of 1000 cows, and steal fashion accessories from an Amazonian princess.

Lucky you.

All you have to do is buy a book.Thanks for your time.

The Annual Christmas Cookie Piece

This column was posted on this site three years ago.  But these Christmas cookies are so amazing I feel it my sacred holiday duty to offer the recipe each year.

If you’d like to take a look, here is the link.I highly recommend giving this recipe a go.  I’ve never met a fellow human who did not love these cookies like hairspray at a beauty pageant. 

Thanks for your time. 

 

A Very Walton-esque Christmas

Just press pause.

Just for a minute.

Before you hit ‘complete order’ on that T-Rex Fingerling or tap in your pin number at the mall for one of Oprah’s favorite things, take a breath.

It continues to astonish me that Oprah doesn’t comprehend how utterly revolting and shameful this annual display of bloated consumerism is…Or maybe she does, and just doesn’t care.

I know you’re trying to knock out your gift list, but I have a crazy, subversive suggestion.

Make like Ma Walton and make some of those presents.  I don’t mean a corn cob dolly or a new Sunday dress from a flour sack; unless, of course that’s your jam, and there are people in your life who have always wanted said dolly or Sunday dress. Is there someone on your list who’s tough to buy for?  So, don’t.  If you know them well enough to give them something, you know something they’ll like.

Maybe your recipient’s that guy that returns everything.  They probably won’t have the chutzpah to turn around and give back to you something you created with blood, sweat and tears.  And if they do, take that ingrate off your list.  They’re going to be difficult no matter what you do, so do nothing and they’ll be just as upset as usual.Maybe it’s a secret Santa gift, or you want to give something to someone who surprised you with a gift.  A treat from the kitchen, or something useful that you’ve made is nonspecific yet personal.

And, I can promise you that a gift you made will be unique until the end of time.  They will never, ever receive an exact duplicate.  Scout’s honor.So, Gentle Reader, you’ve decided to take the plunge and rock a homemade holiday.  The inevitable next question—make what?

I’ve got a few ideas, Bunky.  Really though, when have I not had some ideas?  Have you met me?Kitchen gifts: Everybody loves a food gift.  Not sure?  Think about the last time somebody brought some unexpected grub to your place of work.  Grown responsible adults turn into gleeful children at the appearance of a box or tray of goodies.

Is there some food or drink that you make that friends or relatives have spoken about with longing?  There you go.

me and bo

Bo and me (dark hair), about a million years ago (around 1989).  This is the same night I cold-cocked a guy in a bar for grabbing my ass…

My best girlfriend, Bo loves my brown sugar pound cake.  Every year I’d make her a dozen mini cakes, well wrapped, labeled, and suitable for freezing.  One day in June she called me, delirious with happiness.  She was cleaning out the freezer and had found one she’d overlooked.  She planned on digging in after everyone had gone to bed so she didn’t have to share.Do something crafty: Do you knit or crochet?  Are you a woodworker?  Sculpt barnyard animals out of chewing gum you find under bus seats?  Make it!

One of my favorite things to make is a personalized mirror.  I buy a plain, flat wooden frame and get a mirror made to fit (your local glass company can cut mirrors to size).  Once I decide on a theme to fit the recipient I get every picture pertaining to that theme I can lay my hands on.  I decoupage them onto the frame.  I give it a coat of shellac, then insert the mirror.

Or maybe, you know…a nice gift certificate.

Words and music: Write them a poem and/or a song.

Everyone’s going a million miles an hour these days.  Nobody’s got a spare second left.  Store-bought things are a dime a dozen.  Storage facilities aren’t a growth industry because we don’t have enough stuff.

So, if you take the time, and make something unique and personal, it’s worth way more than cash.

Because no matter what anybody says, there actually are some things left in this life that money can’t buy.Thanks for your time.