My Favorite Monday

If you’re ever out shopping and you see a crazy lady filling her cart with Brach’s pumpkins, Boo Berry and Franken Berry cereal, singing, “It’s The Most Wonderful Time of the Year”, and looking more like a demented Disney princess and less like a serious journalist, that’ll be me.

My birthday and dogwood blooms may both occur in the spring, but fall is my favorite season of the year.And the very best of all, the high holy days of the fall, is the North Carolina State Fair.  I love it like a diva loves drama.  I look forward to it all year long.

For the past few years, I’ve had a couple very minor roles in the fair of my own.  These roles may be minor, but my delight of them have been colossal.The Kid and I have begun working with Flavor NC host Lisa Prince in judging specialty cooking contests.  And as a writer, I’ve been invited to attend the State Fair media luncheon, the Monday before opening day.

In addition to receiving information about the fair from various state and local officials, it’s a showcase of new food that will be there.  An all-you-can-eat fair food buffet.

You heard me right, a bounteous feast of fair food, and we’re the first lucky lucky folks to indulge.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAToday was that red-letter day.

One of my favorite savory items comes from last year’s winner of the best new item; Arepa Loca.  An arepa is a kind of pocket bread sort of thing.  It’s grilled crispy on the outside, split, and normally filled with a shredded beef, chicken, veggies and such.

Those locas son terifico.  The food is fresh, carefully made, and delicious.  The folks are friendly, kind, and very patient with the kind of person who can’t decide and doesn’t have a whole lot of arepa experience (that would be me).OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis year they invented the arepa burger.  They filled the arepa with a moist tasty burger, tomato, onion, and those little potato sticks.  Then dress them with two sauces; a pink aioli, and a cilantro chimichurri-like concoction.  This was the item that intrigued The Kid most, and I was requested to make sure I try.

It’s kind of an odd combo.  I don’t even like cilantro.  But gosh this was good.  I don’t know how light this is, but it feels both healthy and indulgent at the same time.  And I could eat a stack of their fresh, crispy arepas as high as an elephant’s eye.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPastry chef, Lionel Vatinet, owns the astonishing bakery La Farm, in Cary.  Almost everything he makes is the best of its kind I’ve ever eaten.  His Carolina Gold rice bread is my absolute favorite bread.  His desserts are the stuff of dreams.  He makes his own potato chips, for cripe’s sake.

But he is also some kind of confectionary wizard.  Last year he made a life-long raspberry hater devour his chocolate raspberry whoopie pies.  I know, right?OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis year, he made s’mores.  But these are not the s’mores of camping trips of yore.  The crazy Frenchman makes the Graham crackers and marshmallows from scratch.  Then he made chocolate ganache for dunking, and before it dried, sprinkled on candied bacon.

I’m not fond of the texture of marshmallows.  I love the flavor, but it feels like some kind of sentient sponge in my mouth and I just can’t. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABut of course Chef Lionel’s treat was so good it transcended any gelatin weirdness.  I took one bite out of politeness, and Could.Not.Stop.Eating.  I foresee more s’mores in my future, and probably a few road trips to Cary after the fair.

Anybody wanna carpool?Thanks for your time.

Best of both worlds

It’s well known that I’m no fan of the energy draining heat and humidity of our North Carolina summer. I watch for the subtlest of changes to leaf colors the way a middle school boy looks for whiskers on his upper lip.

You’d think with my often whined-about antipathy that I have no love for anything to do with the season.

Au contraire, mon frère.

I enjoy swimming in the ocean (Petey’s always terrified I’m going straight to Europe when I get going — or be eaten by a shark). I like cute sandals. And…

I have to be honest here. I thought and thought, and even asked Petey for help, but I could only come up with one more thing I like about the summer.

I absolutely love summer produce. Tomatoes, berries, summer squash, corn and green veggies; I am there all day.

These days it’s possible to buy fresh summer fruits and veggies out of season, but most of it has traveled from afar, and tastes as much like local in-season bounty as a photographic depiction would.

But if you’re in the mood, and are very particular and discerning, it’s possible to enjoy a summer dish in the fall that has both bright, authentic flavor, and radiant, sunny color.

This can be accomplished by using a combination of fresh and frozen ingredients.

Commercially prepared frozen foods use a method called “IQF”, which means ‘individually quick frozen’. Processing plants are located very near the fields where produce is grown, and right after harvesting it’s prepped and frozen. In many instances it’s done quicker than farmers can get it to the farmer’s market, and you can purchase it and get it home. Corn and berries are good examples.

Some veggies are so easy to grow and ship that they’re always available, at a pretty constant level of quality.

Most grocers usually carry fresh sugar snap peas (usually packaged) and scallions year-round. Supermarket tomatoes are problematic all the time. But grape tomatoes are ubiquitous, sweet and yummy.

So, on a day when it’s nice enough for grilling, I have a side dish and dessert that will create the charade that it’s the middle of the summer — with no swooning involved.

Summer veggie salad

Dressing:

2/3 cup mayonnaise

Juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

½ cup finely grated manchego cheese (may substitute other dry, hard cheese, like Parmesan)

Salt & pepper

Whisk all ingredients together at least one hour before service, and refrigerate.

Salad:

12 ounces fresh snap peas

1 cup grape tomatoes, halved

1 cup frozen shoepeg corn, thawed

2 slices bacon

3 scallions, sliced thinly

½ teaspoon sugar

Salt & pepper

Blanch snap peas: Cook in heavily salted, boiling water for 2-3 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon into ice water. When cool, drain and slice in half at an angle.

Cut bacon into ½ inch strips, and cook until crispy. Remove from pan and drain. Pour out all but 2 teaspoons grease. Into same pan, pour in corn, season, and add sugar. Allow to cook until browned around edges. Remove and let cool.

Put all salad ingredients except bacon into bowl, and mix. Add dressing a bit at a time until coated. Refrigerate until service. Right before serving, stir in bacon. Serves 4-6.

Berry cobbler

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided

2 tablespoons cornstarch

5 cups frozen mixed berries

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

1 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 cup self-rising cornmeal

2 pinches salt

¼ teaspoon fresh nutmeg

1/3 cup butter, melted and cooled

1 cup milk

Combine 1/3 cup sugar, pinch of salt, and cornstarch. Stir this into berries and lemon juice; spoon mixture into lightly greased 2-qt. baking dish.

Combine flour, cornmeal, pinch of salt, nutmeg, lemon zest and 2/3 cup sugar. Whisk in butter and milk. Spread batter evenly over berries.

Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons sugar.

Bake at 350° for 40-45 minutes or until golden. Serves 6-8.

So, to answer that peculiarly 21st century question: Yes, you can have it all.

You can eat like it’s the middle of July, while wearing the cutest pair of suede boots and an adorable little sweater—in October.

Thanks for your time.