Cracking a Few Eggs

Anne Burrell is kind of a big deal at Food Network.

On Iron Chef America she acted as Mario Batali’s soux chef (second in command) for each battle in which he competed.  She serves as an almost unbeatable coach on the show, “Worst Cooks in America”; both civilian and celebrity versions.  She’s competed on All-Star episodes of Chopped, and again, almost always wins.

She’s a culinary expert with proof to back it up.But as a baker, she has really blond hair.  And, as a baker, she loves spending time in upstate New York with her family.  And, as a baker, Chef Burrell studied cooking in Italy.  All this witty bush beating is my way of saying that her baking muscles are either undeveloped or atrophied.

For some reason, though, Chef Anne decided on one episode of Worst Cooks to have the contestants bake a cake.Remember, these contestants are folks who show up and make their signature dish of mole marinara spaghetti studded with peanut M&M’s or matzo ball gummy bear gazpacho.  They believe that eggplants are some sort of purple bird egg and corned beef is both a meat (beef) and a vegetable (corn).

Shockingly, the recruits possess no baking skills or experience.When it’s all said and done, baking is science.  It’s chemistry.  If you can read, follow directions and learn a few terms and techniques, you can be a successful baker.  You may not be an inspired pastry chef, but you can turn out after school treats, bake sale cupcakes, and pie for Thanksgiving dinner without blowing anything up or killing anybody.My English teacher, Mrs. Flood told me something that I’ve come to believe is true in most endeavors: first you have to learn the rules, then and only then can you bend and/or break them.  She was talking grammar, but it applies to baking.  Thus, when teaching novices, it’s imperative that they are taught best practices.

But Chef Burrell, unfortunately, didn’t.

While she was demonstrating making cake batter, she had to add eggs.  And so she cracked them one after another on the edge of the mixer bowl.  She then dumped them right into that bowl.I let out an involuntary shriek and got angry on behalf of all the attentive students, both on the show, and at home watching.

First, you never crack eggs against an edge.  That can drive tiny, invisible bits of shell into the contents.  You may never even know they’re in there—unless of course those bits contain a few thousand microbes of some seriously sick-making variety.  Then you will, I promise, know something has gone severely awry.Secondly, you never dump egg from shell straight to bowl.  An eggshell shard that has escaped along with the egg will be impossible to find and remove amongst the other contents.  Nothing quells my appetite faster than eating an egg dish and feeling that crunch of doom as you bite down on an errant shell. And what if something is wrong with the egg?  Do you want a bunch of blood in your white cake?  Or what if it’s rotten?  Yuck.  You’ve just wasted every other ingredient that made it into your bowl before the eggs.  And what if you don’t have enough on hand to recreate the recipe?  You have to run to the store or abandon the project.So, the grasshopper must be taught diligently, paying strict attention to proper procedure.  Then when the educated cook chooses to cut corners, they take an informed risk.  And if/when it gets screwed up, then I know I have only myself to blame.

Thanks for your time.

Things I learned in class

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“What did we know from scallions?”

She may not have known a whole lot about scallions, but Nathalie Dupree is a walking encyclopedia of culinary knowledge and history.

Friday night I went over to the Southern Season in Chapel Hill, and attended a cooking class given by the Grande Dame of Southern Cuisine; Nathalie Dupree.  And boy, was I taken to school.  Below is just a few of the many, many things I learned.

1.)Nathalie is kind, and very funny.  And she absolutely does not believe in giving yourself a migraine by stressing in the kitchen.  The history of Southern cooking is not fancy and fussy, it’s making do with what you have on hand.

2.)When you’re cooking a large meal, write a list of everything you need to do, so you’re not sitting down to dinner and realize you forgot the rolls.  Order the list by cooking time.

3.)Okra.  Cut it lengthwise, and toss in olive oil, salt and pepper.  Roast at 400 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until colored and crispy.

To dice okra, treat it just like an onion.  Leave on stem, cut width and length-wise.  Then slice it into a dice.

4.)Thomas Jefferson, who was an accomplished and curious farmer, is the reason why there are so many varieties of peas and beans available to us.  Using a couple types, our first course was this delicious salad.

Corn and butter bean salad

corn and bean salad

1 pound shelled butter beans, butter peas, speckled peas or any combination, fresh or frozen

6 ears corn on the cob, preferably Silver Queen, kernels and juice scraped from cob

1 green onion or scallion, sliced, white and green parts

8 slices bacon, cooked crispy and crumbled

¾ cup mayonnaise (Good Southern girl Nathalie has a strong preference for Dukes)

4 tablespoons white wine vinegar

3-4 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

Salt & freshly ground black pepper

Add the beans to boiling salted water, reduce heat and cook about 3 minutes.  Add the corn and cook 1 minute more.  Drain the beans and corn and run under cold water to stop the cooking and refresh them.  Drain again.

Gently toss together the beans, corn, onion, bacon, mayo, vinegar, and thyme.  Taste, then season.

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least one hour before serving for the best marriage of flavors.

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*Variation: Substitute one pound package frozen white shoe peg corn or other whole kernel corn (see, I told you she doesn’t believe in getting all crazy in the kitchen about ingredients or technique).

5.)This is absolutely genius: Because it’s a summer crop in the north, and a winter crop in the south, flour grown in Northern climes are harder, ie; contain more gluten, which makes for stretchier bread dough (a good thing).  Southern flour is softer, which is much better for flaky pie crusts and biscuits with crispy crusts, and tender insides.

WhieLilly, Martha White, and Southern Biscuit are all from the south and therefore better for cake, pastry, and biscuits.

King Arthur flour is from Vermont, and thus is a much harder wheat, and really good for bread making.

Gluten is protein.  So, if you’re not sure how much gluten is in a particular brand of flour, check the nutritional label.  Flour with higher protein content per serving has more gluten.

Nathalie Dupree is my kitchen hero.  To illustrate her laid back cooking philosophy, I will leave you with one of her best lines from class.

“If it turns out great, serve it.  If it doesn’t; make a trifle.”

It doesn’t matter what the original plan was…anything can be a trifle.

Thanks for your time.