In November of last year, it was announced that Southern Season, a Chapel Hill institution since 1975, and friend to generations of lovers of food would be closing. It’s been a long slow demise which began with the 2011 sale of the titan to TC Capital Fund.
But in its heyday, it was a fairyland for anyone fascinated by all things. It was a juggernaut; almost a culinary amusement park.
When The Kid was in elementary school, I worked at the Waldenbooks at University Mall for a few months. Whenever I could, I’d run down to Southern Season, at the far end, and pick up lunch.
In the salad bar was a pasta salad that I loved, I bugged the chef, and he finally told me the secret was water, it becomes a dressing that somehow lightly coats the pasta with flavor.
When The Kid was in high school, and Petey worked weekend nights at Duke, we would make a Saturday supper pasta that contained many ingredients that the absent Petey loathed, or were his personal kryptonite.
When we had our infrequent E-ticket adventures at University Mall, we always stocked up with plenty of pappardelle for our feast at Southern Season.
Thanks for the memories, old friend, and thanks for your time.
Contact debbie at email@example.com.
Walden Books Pasta Salad
1 pound pasta rotelle, bow tie, or cavatapi, cooked according to directions, then drained and cooled—do not rinse)
2 cups frozen peas, thawed
Salt & pepper
1 ½ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons malt vinegar
Hottest tap water (have a ½ cup ready, but you won’t need it all)
1 cup Cherubs tomatoes sliced in half
1 bunch green onions, sliced thin
Salt & pepper
Whisk together mayo and vinegar.
A teaspoon at a time, whisk in water until the dressing is just a little thicker than bottled creamy salad dressing. Stir in tomatoes and green onions. Refrigerate for at least an hour, but no more than two.
30 minutes before service: In large bowl, stir together pasta, peas, and dressing. Start with a little dressing and continue adding until it is just a little too wet, it will tighten up, and as it does, coat the pasta.
Cover loosely with plastic wrap and sit in a cool corner of the kitchen for 30 minutes before service.
Southern Season Krypto-night
1-approximately 16-ounce package of parpappardelle pasta
3 tablespoons salt
3 thick slices of pancetta
1-pound mushrooms, cleaned and sliced uniformly
½ teaspoon dry thyme
1 bag or box frozen artichokes, thawed and halved
Many cloves of garlic, at least 8
1 cup chicken stock
½ cup Parmesan cheese, plus more for service
1 large lemon, zested and juiced
Salt & pepper
Put a large pot of water on for the pasta.
In a large skillet, cook pancetta or bacon until it is completely rendered and crispy, remove from pan and set aside on paper towels.
Put mushrooms and artichokes in 1 tablespoon of the reserved fat. Lower to medium-low, cover and cook for 5-7 minutes to facilitate the vegetables to release their liquid.
Uncover and turn up to medium, and cook, stirring frequently, until the veg has lightly browned.
Add garlic and lemon zest, cook just until the garlic starts thinking about browning.
With a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer pasta to skillet, stirring in a spoonful of pasta water at a time until everything’s coated, but not saucy at all.
Take off heat, add lemon juice and stir in peas. Serve in large shallow bowls with a healthy snow shower of Parm.
Makes 4-6 very hearty servings.