Profile, the second, part deux

*This column will be running on Wednesday, August 30, on the food page of The Henderson Daily Dispatch.

Last week I shared the first portion of my telephone interview with Chef Dominique Crenn in advance of her participation at the Euphoria Festival in Greenville SC, on the weekend of September 21st.   She’s chef/owner of Michelin-starred Atelier Crenn and Petit Crenn in San Francisco.  Chef Dominique was also named world’s best female chef in 2016.

Here is the second part of that conversation.

What are some items that you can’t cook without? A good spoon to test.  What…, salt, great olive oil…French olive oil?  From Spain; great organic olive oil.  I know, I love the French, but the Spanish is just amazing.  I’ve spent a lot of time in Spain. A lot of great cheese…French cheese.

What is your favorite cheese?  You know I love comte cheese, and blue cheese, Roquefort or Fourme d’Ambert.

So, you know, I need to have a scale in the kitchen too.

What is one dish that a novice should learn that is inexpensive, but which also can be used for entertaining?  They need to learn how to make the best French omelet. What in the culinary world angers or disappoints you?  When people don’t think before cooking.  They are not conscious and thoughtful about what they are buying.  In a restaurant also, you know?  Restaurants have a responsibility not only to cook, but to the farmers and the community that we are living in.  I think it’s important for us to be involved in any way that we can with the community that surrounds us.  And we are not growing the food, the farmers are growing the food.  Just get involved—get involved with your rancher, get involved with your fishmonger, get involved with the person that is making cheese—get involved with your community.  And when they don’t do it, that really angers me.

So, what in the food world makes you happy and gives you hope for the future?  Children give me hope.  Food is the core of the society.  If there is no food, no understanding of what food is, then there is no society.How do you deal with the stuff that you have to put up with as a female chef?  My approach is to be smarter than they are, without putting them down.  I deal with it with in the most intellectual and positive way I can.  If I’m dealing with someone who’s acting with much annoyance, I just don’t answer them.

What do you pack for a picnic?  A good bottle of wine; rose wine.  A beautiful French baguette.  Different types of cheeses, some pickled vegetables, maybe some jam, some type of seafood, chacouterie, a lot of beautiful fruit from the market.  But I think a baguette with butter and cheese, and cornichon is good enough for me.What’s the best way for passionate, but not affluent people to enjoy fine dining?  When you want to appreciate something, you have to go with an open mind, let go of your surroundings and surrender yourself to what it is.  I know it can be kind of expensive, but I created another spot, Petit Crenn where people can come and enjoy the passion and the love that we create.  And I’m opening, in the fall, Bar Crenn, which is going to be ala carte, also, adjacent to Atelier.  I’m going to be offering ala carte, but also be offering maybe a couple of tasting menus which will be less expensive than Atelier Crenn.  I want to welcome everyone.

Next week we will conclude our conversation with Chef Crenn.  She told me a couple things that surprised me, and might give you a surprise, as well.Thanks for your time.

Chefs in Profile

On the weekend of September 21st through the 24th, there will be a food festival in Greenville, SC.  It’s the 12th annual Euphoria celebration.  The Kid and I will attend.

To get us all in the mood, I’ve been lucky enough to have the opportunity to interview and get to know some very talented chefs who will be cooking at Euphoria.

First up is Chef Scott Crawford of Raleigh.

Chef Scott Crawford

In addition to five years as executive chef at the Umstead Hotel and Spa, Chef Scott ran the kitchen at the groundbreaking Standard Foods and Grocery.  Last year in the Oakwood neighborhood in Raleigh, he introduced Crawford and Son, a love letter to sustainable Southern cuisine.

A champion of folks working hospitality, he founded the Raleigh chapter of Ben’s Friends, a support group for people in the industry with substance abuse and addiction issues.

All three chefs got a very similar set of 15 questions.  I believe the compare/contrast helps us to get to know and understand them a bit better.

What follows is Chef’s questions and answers; verbatim.1.) For your tomato sandwich: Duke’s, Hellmann’s or homemade? What kind of bread? DUKES! Fresh milk bread…still warm.

2.) What is your “Can’t wait to get your hands on” seasonal ingredient, and what’s your favorite treatment? Apples! I love how many different apples are grown in North Carolina. Some of my favorite treatments that happen every year: Bacon-Apple Marmalade, Vanilla Apple Pickles, Sherry-Apple Date Butter, Green Apple Granita

3.) What is your guilty pleasure? Cookie Butter!

4.) What do you make when you get home from the Crawford & Son and it’s late, and you’re hungry? I make huge, fresh vegetable salads with olive oil, and lots of vinegar and crunchy salt.

Every chef has the tools they can’t live without.  This is Julia Child’s famous peg boards with some of her “can’t-live-withouts”.

5.) What five tools can you not live without? Japanese Utility Knife, Mini Offset Spatula, Sharpie, Peeler, Pepper Mill. In a professional kitchen, these are the must haves.

6.) What five ingredients can you not cook without? Salt, Pepper, Vinegar, Olive Oil, Sugar. I can make anything taste good with these ingredients.

7.) What is one dish that a novice cook should learn for entertaining that’s easy, impressive, and inexpensive? (Any recipe you care to share will be highly appreciated) Soup! No one makes good soup anymore.

Just eat around the stones…

8.) What in the culinary world angers or disappoints you? As an industry, we still haven’t figured out how to truly take care of our own. That upsets me. I don’t have all the answers yet but I won’t rest until we can do better.

9.) What in the culinary world pleases you and gives you hope for the future? The culinary world welcomes all types and gives us an outlet for creative energy. It also offers an intensity not found in other creative jobs. It’s addictive.

10.) What’s your birthday dinner? Anything…as long as it’s with my family. 😊

11.) What do you take on a picnic? We love to go hiking and find a relaxing spot to sit and eat pastries from a local bakery called Boulted Bread.

Big fan of Boulted as well.  And yes, they grind their own, right in the bakery.

12.) What food trend or ingredient are you totally and completely over? Liquid Nitrogen.

13.) What is the best way for passionate but not affluent people to enjoy fine dining?   Tour their favorite food city lunching and brunching. Lower price point but equal excitement.

A cornu-freaking-copia every single visit.

14.) Favorite local farmers market and vendor? Ronnie Moore’s here at Raleigh Farmers Market.

15.) What is one thing about you that nobody would ever guess? At one point in my life, I lived in my car. 😳Thanks for your time.