Things I’ve done with a butt

 

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The pork butt torte.

When Petey and I first married, not only could I not cook, I had no idea how to cook for two. At home, my mother always made enough at each meal to feed many, many unexpected guests. In my entire childhood, while it may not “have been fancy,” as mom would say, there was always plenty, no matter how many sat at her table, or needed a to-go plate or fourteen.
So when I made meat loaf for my handsome groom, it was always at least four pounds, and then I couldn’t figure out why I had a frat party’s worth of food going fuzzy in the fridge.
It took a long time, but I finally figured out how to cook for a realistic number of diners. Since then I am obsessed with using all the food that I buy, and wasting as little as possible.
But when I plan on making Boston Butt, the shoulder of a pig, I always buy a cut as large as my big dutch oven, “Old Blue” can handle. Usually about five pounds. When the Kid was at home, I could make an eight pounder in“Mrs. Lovett”, The Kid’s massive cooker. But the pot went north, along with our child, and most of our money.
And not one ounce of an oinker goes to waste.
Last Monday night I made a 4 1/2 pounder. I cooked up a pot of yellow rice with pigeon peas as well. I marinated the hunk of pig in the fridge over night. Early in the day I dried it off, rubbed seasoning all over it, and gave it a dark brown sear on all sides. I brown my aromatics (the flavoring veg, and spices) in the same pot, deglaze, put the roast back in the pan fat side up, and pour in liquid until it comes about halfway up the sides of the pork.
I am purposefully not advising on other ingredients. You can make it any style you want. From beer, cabbage, and carrots to fish sauce, yuzu and five spice. Have fun, but keep tasting your concoction for flavor and balance.
Bake it low and slow. The lowest safe oven temperature to cook it is 225. Monday, my little piggy took six and a half hours. This meat will tell you when it’s done. When the muscle groups of the roast are falling away from each other, and you can easily shred even inner meat with a fork; it’s done. Don’t try to force the pig, it doesn’t work.
For our rice and pigeon peas, I put some pig chopped, into a pan with achiote-garlic oil. I crisped it up, and put a handful on the top each serving of rice.
At the end of cooking it, I had four bags of slow-roasted pork to freeze for later.
Last night, I added some Mexican spice and made a torte in a spring-form pan. I layered rice (leftover from Monday, and spiced with poblanos) and pork with freshly roasted corn between tortillas. I put sliced tomatoes, and sliced Oaxaca cheese on top. At the end, I spread a lime-cumin sour cream, into which I’ve whisked some fine white masa. This bakes up like a super creamy polenta. I sprinkled shredded cheddar, snipped chive, and a fine dusting of smoked paprika on the top of the polenta. It went under the broiler to puff, and brown. I let it rest for a bit, release the ring, and am left with a layered cake kinda thing, full of a Mexican dinner.
Another night my bag o’ pork might be used on tacos, sandwiches, or baked potatoes. I put it in pies, casseroles, and pasta. I have the slowest of slow-roasted pork, which only takes defrosting time.
If I’m in the kitchen, making a huge batch of something, Petey, veteran of many dinners for two, featuring casseroles for eight, looks nervous. But if I have a piece of pig the size of lawn mower in the oven, he just looks hungry.
Thanks for your time.

Dull?

When I mentioned the idea of this column to The Kid, it was met with a politely suppressed yawn. “Really? Roasted chicken breasts? That’s…nice…” I swear I heard crickets.
Dull they might be, but my child has never stood in the meat department of the grocery store for the 4,000th time (literally; my journalistic standards and morbid curiosity compelled me to break out the calculator), almost faint with desperate longing for a new take on dinner.
So in honor of any mutual sufferers (and to maybe prove The Kid wrong), here are a few musings on the subject:
Roasted Chicken Breasts
When they’re on on sale (Carlie C’s recently had them at 89 cents a pound), and you’ve got room to freeze, stock the heck up. Buy them with skin and bone. Not only are they cheaper, but you will use them both, to great benefit.
You can serve them hot. Serve them alone (they are really juicy), or with a sauce of whatever you have a hankering for.
On top of pasta? Marinara, or a hot relish made of halved grape tomatoes and chopped garlic, tossed in a little olive oil and tons of fresh, coarsely cracked black pepper and kosher salt until just hot. Don’t let the tomatoes get hot enough to either shrivel, or start giving up their juice. After you take it off the heat, check for salt.
You can serve them over a bed of mashed sweet potatoes, or acorn squash, or any other kind of mashed veg you want. You can mix them, sliced, into a saute of fresh vegetables. I love a little hollandaise, drizzeled over the top (okay, standards again, I could drink a glass full of yummy hollandaise sauce, I love that stuff).
You get it, you can go all Da Vinci on these puppies.
The best way to cook these guys couldn’t be easier. 350 degrees, until a thermometer which has been inserted into the thicket part of the biggest breast before putting in the oven, registers 165 degrees. Don’t mess around here, rare chicken can kill. Let them rest for 5-10 minutes, covered, before removing the thermometer and serving.
But, here’s the cool part. You can make the chicken meat itself a canvass where you can really let you freak flag fly. Before cooking, carefully open a pocket between the skin and meat. Do it with your fingers, and be very gentle.
Into the pocket put a tablespoon of whatever flavor you want. Pesto, chiles, herbs du Provence, pancetta and lemon, american cheese(eww.). Go for it.
If you want to make them ahead, leave covered until they’re cool, remove the skin, but don’t discard, take the meat off the bone and freeze. If you like, you can crisp up and carmelize that skin, and use it like bacon. Start in a dry pan, no need for fat here. If you keep the rendered fat you have created “Schmaltz”, a frequent ingredient in traditional Jewish cooking, this is the Kosher alternative to pork fat, and tasty (not quite duck fat, but then, what is?).
You can do pounds of chickies when you have the time. And another night when time is of the essence you could have cool, homemade chicken salad, or comforting chowder, or healthy veggy lasagne in less time than it takes to make your kid do his homework.
Thanks for your time.